Friday, July 30, 2010

"He who has seen one cathedral ten times has seen something, he who has seen ten cathedrals once has seen but little, and he who has spent half an hour in each of a hundred cathedrals has seen nothing at all." Sinclair Lewis

As a traveller I believe you tend to fall into one of two categories. The first is the 'overly-organized traveller', who thoroughly researches the destination beforehand - purchasing guidebooks and/or printing off maps, travel tips and various pieces of information. They arrive with this information in hand and quite often a plan of attack, ready to take on their chosen place of adventure. The second is what I like to call the 'more-relaxed traveller', who arrives with no real plan or previous organization. They arrive at their chosen destination (which may have been whimsically chosen just moments before jumping on the bus/train/plane) preferring to instead 'go with the flow'. There are of course many variations in between, but the distinction between the two is clear.


I will admit, I am more inclined to the first description. I tend to have a desire to want to do, see and know everything. Consequently I can sometimes be a little overzealous when it comes to travel, but I am getting better. It is all about striking a balance. You want to be organized to some degree (you wouldn't visit Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tour, Rome without seeing the Colosseum or Sydney without seeing The Opera house) but not so organized that you're closed off to new and spontaneous experiences - which can sometimes turn out to be the best experiences.


However, I believe the best way to really get to know a place is to spend an extended amount of time there. Only then can you truly appreciate all that it has to offer. Having lived in Prague for half a year now, I feel as though I have really gotten to know the place. And it is an experience which is ongoing, as I continue to discover new places of interest on a weekly and sometimes even daily basis. Whether it be a funky underground bar, cosy restaurant with great food, a one-off vintage store or a wicked art gallery, Prague offers its visitors and inhabitants an abundance of choice. Although it would be virtually impossible to experience everything, with these places of interest (particularly bars and restaurants) often tucked away and discovered only by word of mouth or a chance walking-by.


While humans are intrinsically wired to explore and discover, they are also very much creatures of habit and comfort. We are naturally drawn to places we enjoy, have fond memories or perhaps feel safe. I think this is all the more true when living in a foreign country, as one attempts to create a sense of normalcy in their life. This has certainly been the case for myself. It didn't happen overnight, it was rather  a gradual process. I certainly feel as though I've now reached a point where I consider the neighbourhood I live in to be my home, as opposed to a foreign place I currently reside in.


Zizkov/Vinohrady


And what a cracking neighbourhood Zizkov is! Situated uphill and only a couple of metro stops from the heart of the city centre, it is unconventional, historical, sophisticated and even a little grungy -in an edgy kind of way of course! Contrasting Austro-Hungarian architecture, haphazard graffiti, people from all walks of life and a multitude of quaint little bars, clubs, restaurants and shops are all part of Zizkov's charm. And living on the border of it's juxtaposing neighbour Vinohrady, I get the best of both worlds. Once home to King Charles IV vineyards (Vinohrady means 'vineyard'), Vinohrady's clean Art Nouveau buildings and cellar-converted restaurants and bars are constant reminders of it's opulent days.


Riegrovy Sady


The place where I feel the most safe (apart from my home) and return to time and time again is my local park - Riegrovy Sady. Riegrovy represents many things to me. It's maze of paths serve as my running route where I clear my head and de-stress. During the warmer months, it's lush green grass serve as a sunbaking ground where I can relax and forget the pressures of life. It's beer gardens (which I consider to be one of, if not THE best in Prague!) serve as a place to socialize and meet friends. And finally it's spectacular views serve as a reminder of just how lucky I am to live in the most beautiful city in Europe.


It's funny to think that a place once so unknown and foreign can become one of comfort. I remember vividly the first time I came across Riegrovy Sady. Covered in a thick blanket of snow I attempted to walk along it's icy paths. Well I didn't venture too far! A few months on and many visits later I now know it like the back of my hand. Making my way along its winding paths I come across many familiar sights - an array of dogs being walked by their owners, fellow runners passing by, friends laying and chatting on the grass, retirees sitting on benches and pondering life, and in the afternoons a group of tightrope walkers practicing on a rope connected to two thick tree trunks. This is Riegrovy - my own little 'haven' call it if you will.


Below are some photos of Riegrovy, followed by some other places I have come to know well during my time here.


Last traces of winter - Riegrovy's winding paths




Spring time - blossoming trees with 
the beer garden in the background




A familiar sight - dogs running about! 


Zizkov TV Tower


Probably the most bizarre structure I have ever come across - I have now grown to love it for all of its wackiness. At 216m, the silver TV transmitter is the tallest building in Prague. Designed by Vaclav Aulicky, it is famous Czech artist David Cerny's addition to the tower which has caused the latest controversy. Home to Cerny's giant, black 'computer babies' - ten faceless, crawling Miminka (babies) were added to the tower as part of Prague's contribution to the European City of Culture in 2000*. The addition caused much outcry among Prazaks but I think it is fair to say that they too have grown to love it. Visible from all over Prague, I consider it to be my own personal, residential pinpoint marker!




Jiriho z Podebrad Square


The square where you exit out of the metro stop of the same name, 'JZP' (which is what those who struggle with the Czech language refer to it as!) is anything but boring. The grand, brown and white church of The Most Sacred Heart of Our Lord dominates the area. From my apartment I can hear it's bells chiming on the hour. In fact, during the week it's first chimes at 7am act as an initial 'wake-up call' - notifying me of how much longer I have left in bed! Located atop the Zizkov/Vinohrady hill, it's imposing structure and aged, blue-coloured bronze cross pierce the city skyline from various high viewpoints around the city. Surrounded by a park with walkways and benches - locals, passersby and homeless hawkers (who while annoying are usually harmless) frequent the square. Around it's perimeter colourful buildings in the city's typical, historical style watch over the square's action as it unfolds.




Bila Vrana


Meaning 'white crow', Bila Vrana is an awesome little bar/restaurant located around the corner from me.    Having dined and drank there many times, it is fast becoming my local. A cosy atmosphere complete with fitting decor such as hanging bird cages, wooden seating and green, leafy plants, it is a great place to enjoy a few drinks, whether it be a glass of red or perhaps their tasty blended Kozel beer. Bila Vrana also offers patrons a varied and very affordable selection of food, with their menu including delights such as duck salad in plum sauce, garlic tiger prawns and creamy pumpkin, cheese and walnut risotto.


http://www.bilavrana.com


Parc Ferme


Another nearby haunt, this is a funky little cocktail bar where I have enjoyed lively conversations over drinks numerous times. You can sit in the front area by the bar or chill out in the back area on the red leather couch in the warmth of the orange lighting and decor. A cool album or soundtrack is always playing in the background, adding to the relaxed and stylish feel of the place.


http://www.parcferme.cz


Palac Akropolis


A popular Zizkov club, Palac Akropolis is unmissable with it's blue, yellow and green exterior. Dominantly positioned on the corner of two streets, it's interior is equally cool. Corridors lead to separate rooms each with their own DJ, bar and dance floor. There's a great vibe to the place with everything from electro beats, drum 'n' bass to rock playing. And being only a short walk from my place, it makes returning home from a night out a (relatively!) easy task.


http://www.palacakropolis.cz


Sudicka


This place was recommended to me by a few and after eating there it's not hard to see why. Located in Vinohrady, this cellar-converted restaurant has a very cosy and homely feel. Wooden flooring and seating, stone walls, shelves filled with books, photographs on walls and candles decorate the place. Sudicka has a great selection of wine and delectable food such as their much raved-about garlic cream soup, fondue, steak and couscous dishes.


http://www.sudicka.cz/


So as you can see Prague (in particular the area I live in) has very much become my home. I have and I'm sure will continue to enjoy discovering more new places and making them my own!


Australian in Prague


*Sources: http://www.radio.cz/en/article/33525, http://www.visitingprague.org/babies-in-tv-tower