Friday, September 16, 2011

"Life belongs to the living, and he who lives must be prepared for changes." Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

A little over two years ago I made a decision that would very much change the course of my life. Having felt frustrated for some time about the direction I was traveling back in Australia, I realized that I needed to make a fairly drastic change in order to 'live' more. After much consideration, I decided to move across the globe and immerse myself in a European culture - specifically the city of Prague in the Czech Republic. For the last 18 or so months, Prague and it's surrounding areas have provided me with an abundance of experiences and life-long memories. But the time has come for me to depart Prague, as I once again change the course of my life.

I thought it fitting for my final post to pass on some valuable information or 'tips' that I have accumulated during my time in Prague. I make no claim to be a professional critic or to have visited every Prague venue, rather someone who has endeavoured to get the very most out of her experience. So follows is a list of Prague Highlights - a compilation of various places, events and mediums that I have come across whilst living in this wonderful city, and felt were worth sharing.

Prague Highlights

The list is divided into the following categories; 
- Dining (several categories)
- Drinking (several categories)
- Clubbing
- Culture (several categories)
- Shopping
- Entertainment
- Picnic/Nature spots
- Viewpoints
- Venues for watching sports
- Information/Inspiration
- Events
- Miscellaneous

Dining - Czech/traditional cuisine
- U Sadu*: A great range of Czech cuisine at a very affordable price. You can sit outside in the warmer months, inside on the ground level's Communist-memorabilia decorated room, or go down below to hang out in one of the various cellar-bricked seating areas. http://www.usadu.cz/

- Hloupy Honza: Also offering a wide selection of Czech cuisine at a wallet-friendly price, you'll enjoy dining in a topsy-turvy (Hloupy Honza = Crazy John), country environment. An energetic Czech live band provides entertainment each Friday night. http://www.hloupyhonza.cz/

- Bar Bar*: An original range of traditional, hearty meals including delights such as roasted rabbit leg, grilled pork neck and roast lamb shank. Located on a tucked-away street, Bar Bar has a cosy, underground atmosphere. http://www.bar-bar.cz/


Dining -  International cuisine
- Noi: Considered one of the best Thai establishment's in town, it's interior is tastefully decorated in a traditional Zen style. http://www.noirestaurant.cz/en/

- Sudicka*: This cellar-converted cafe/restaurant has a very inviting atmosphere with it's brick interior, soft lighting and homely furnishings. It offers a wide selection of wines and food, including their much-raved about garlic cream soup, raclette as well as traditional and couscous dishes. http://www.sudicka.cz/

- Bila Vrana*: Also offering a varied choice of food such as steaks, burgers, pastas and inventive salads, Bila Vrana provides guests with a laid back and natural dining/drinking experience complete with wooden seating, greenery and hanging birdcages (Bila vrana = white crow). http://www.bilavrana.com/

- Las Adelitas: Get your Mexican fix here. Quality, emblematic dishes and well-prepared drinks in a cosy, friendly environment. http://www.lasadelitas.cz/

- Curry House: This is regarded the best Indian in town by many. The restaurant itself is not overly spectacular but the quality of food is top notch, with their tandoori dishes considered a speciality. Dishes are generally on the hotter side, but you can request them to be milder. http://www.curryhouse.cz/

- Masala: Another popular Indian restaurant in two locations, the newer Pod Karlovem establishment is the flashier and much grander of the two. Also serving quality Indian cuisine, their fluffy and generously sized naan bread is a hit. Be careful of drinks though, they are on the expensive side. http://www.masala.cz/

- Hanoi: A Vietnamese restaurant that will not leave you hungry or break the bank.  It offers a range of delicious, generously portioned Vietnamese dishes - all at an extremely affordable price. Slezská 57, Praha 2.

- Rezava Kotver: If you're in the mood for some delectable tapas then look no further than Rezava Kotver. Diners can choose from a 6, 12 or 18 tapas set. The location is picturesque too, sit inside or on the terrace - either way you'll enjoy great views over the Vltava and of significant Prague sights such as The Dancing House and National Theatre. http://www.rezavakotva.cz/


Dining - something a little more special
- Luka Lu: A Balkan restaurant serving gorgeous food in a unique setting. From outside it may look like a typically good restaurant, but once inside you'll enter a colourful, pleasantly surreal world. In the warmer months guests can sit outside in the Summer garden and all year round in the originally decorated Winter Garden. http://lukalu.cz/

- Mi Ya Bi: If you're after some sumptuous sushi in a fine setting, then Mi Ya Bi fits the bill. The front part of the restaurant offers normal seating, while in the back there are private, curtained-off areas for groups. http://www.miyabi.cz/

- Marina Grosseto: This chic, floating Pizzeria restaurant offers stunning views of Prague Castle and Charles Bridge, and the good news is it's not as expensive as you might think. The restaurant has two levels and it is advised to book in advance. http://www.grosseto.cz/marina

- Dahab: An authentic oriental dining experience. Enjoy a range of carefully cultivated Arabian dishes in dreamy oriental surrounds. http://www.dahab.cz/

- Palffy Palac: Fine dining in a luxurious baroque setting. With the exceptional service and quality of food on offer, expect it to be a little pricey. http://www.palffy.cz/en/

- Mirellie (Vinohrady): A mediterranean restaurant in two locations - Dejvicka and Vinohrady. Having only visited the latter, I can only comment on this one. Chic and modern, Mirellie offers a great range of well-prepared dishes at reasonable prices. http://www.mirellie.cz/


Dining - cafes/casual
- Pricny Rez*: A wide and varied menu at very affordable prices, Pricny Rez's interior is uniquely decorated in a chic, Pacific-Island style. NB. They also worth visiting for their weekend brunch menu. http://www.pricnyrez.cz/en/

- Cafe Colore*: Elegant, Viennese cafe incorporating a contemporary twist with it's cheekily displayed Banksy art. Cafe Colure offers a slightly smaller menu, but all meals are prepared with high quality produce and creativity. Friendly service is standard and the 'Club Sandwich' comes highly recommended. http://www.cafecolore.cz/

- Zelena Zahadra*: A visit here will transport you from the city hustle and bustle to a relaxing, green haven. Diners can choose from a selection of Mediterranean and Chinese dishes, and be seated inside in the restaurant's chic winter garden or outside in the natural surrounds of the palm garden. http://www.zelena-zahrada.eu/

- All you can eat Sushi: If you're after a quick and large sushi fix then head to the top level of Palladium Shopping Centre. The 'all you can east sushi' train is 300Kc before 5pm and 400Kc afterwards. However if you're not up for such a big feast, then diners can alternatively order from the menu.

- Bohemia Bagel: Serving the country's first ever fresh, home-made bagels, Bohemia Bagel has become somewhat of an institution. Also offering a range of other cafe-style foods, the chain has three Prague locations. http://www.bohemiabagel.cz/


Dining - brunch
- Zanzibar/Tobruk*: Two separate cafes under the same management/ownership. Zanzibar is African themed, while Tobruk has an Arabian feel. Both offer a varied menu with a top brunch, but Zanzibar has the better location of the two. http://kavarnazanzibar.cz/

- Radost*: A restaurant and cafe by day, lounge and club by night, Radost also rather surprisingly serves a hearty brunch. With an opulent interior, it is a bizarrely pleasant place to kick off your day. http://www.radostfx.cz/restaurant/gallery.htm

- Globe*: An English bookstore and cafe located in a beautiful, historical building. It's cosy cafe complete with a mezzanine is mostly frequented by an expat crowd. http://www.globebookstore.cz/

*** NB. Places with an asterisk are also nice drinking spots. ***

Grand Cafes
- Louvre: An exquisitely decorated cafe that was once frequented by world-renowned celebrities and intellects such as Franz Kafta and Albert Einstien. Chocolate lovers can indulge in their thick, rich hot chocolate. http://www.cafelouvre.cz/en/

- Cafe Orient: Another of Prague's famous grand cafes located in the cubist House of The Black Madonna building. Cafe Orient is very light and open with beautiful green furnishings and subtle cubist touches. http://www.grandcafeorient.cz/

Drinking - tea
- Dobra Cajovna: A tea shop and room, Dobra Cajovna (Good Tea) offers an extensive range of teas from around the world as well as light snacks and meals. Enjoy a cup or two in the very relaxed and cosy Eastern settings. http://www.tea.cz/cajovna/

Drinking - bars
- Bukowskis: A very cool drinking spot located on Zizkov's bar-lined Borivojova street. Low-lit and originally decorated, it has a cosy, slightly disheveled feel. Tuesday night is free sangria for the ladies! http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=10784807951

- Mu Kafe: A chic underground bar with mismatched, retro furniture, colourful stain glassed painted lamps and an Arabian feel. Electro beats buzz alongside casual conversation. Mu Kafe also offers a small menu of delectable snacks including sushi. http://www.mukafe.cz/default.asp

- U Sudu: On a casual passing one may think this bar doesn't offer much, but on further inspection you will find an underground labyrinth of drinking areas. Located in central Prague, this long-running wine cellar/bar offers a selection of drinks. A word of warning - the underground areas can get quite smokey. http://www.usudu.cz/

- U Nemoznych: A cosy, pleasantly lit bar with modern furnishings. U Nemoznych (which means 'the impossible') also provides a bit of bizarre fun with it's nail challenge - can you hit a nail into the tree trunk with a backward hammer? Ljublanska 48, Praha 2. 

- O2 Bar: Located on the corner of Karlovo Namesti, the OBar is a little bit of paradise right in the centre of Prague. Seated on the upstairs terrace you'll be able to take in the green natural surrounds of the square whilst listening to the hustle and bustle of city life. http://www2.o2bar.cz/index.php

- Blue Light Bar: Soft lighting, chilled tunes and unusual scratched walls create a cosy drinking environment in this funky jazz bar. http://www.bluelightbar.cz/

- U Sta Ran (100 slaps!) : With it's brick interior and peculiar lighting, this cafe/bar has a very chilled boudoir feel. Patrons can sit downstairs or upstairs on the extremely cosy mezzanine. http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=290006975584


Drinking - cocktail/wine bars
- Hapu Cocktail Bar: An extensive list of cocktails, brilliantly prepared. Colourful mosaic walls and shabby-chic furniture make you feel as though you've stepped into a hip, retro den. Orlicka 8, Praha 3.

- Deja Vu Bar/Club: This relatively new bar/club pulls out all the stops with it's lavish furnishings and colourful wall-sized images. The flashy experience continues in the downstairs club, but is nicely contrasted with the brick-cellar atmosphere. Cocktails are half price everyday from 6-8pm. http://www.dejavuclub.cz/

- Tiky Taky: A visit to Prague's first authentic Tiki Bar will transport to the South Pacific. In addition to their bamboo walls and tropical decor, Tiky Taky mixes up a varied choice of delicious cocktails. http://www.tikitaky.cz/pp/a/on_a.html

- Vinicni Altan Wine Bar, Havlickovy Sady: A tranquil place to enjoy a glass (or carafe if you wish!) of wine on a warm sunny day/evening. Located in the midst of Havlicky Sady, the wooden terrace  overlooks a vineyard and South East Prague. An extensive list of wines as well as food (some meals, snacks to accompany wine) are on offer. http://www.vinicni-altan.cz/


Drinking - beer
- Riegrovy Sady Beer Gardens: My personal favourite. Large leafy trees shelter the two gardens, with the main one broadcasting a range of sports on it's big screen. An ideal place for a casual catch up with friends. During major sporting events the main garden heaves with fans, creating a fantastic atmosphere.

- Letna Beer Garden: Similar natural atmosphere to Riegrovy, Letna's hilltop location offers great views over the city and Vltava, as well as it's neighbour Prague Castle.

- Vysehrad Beer Garden: For a panoramic view of Prague, head south of the city to Vysehrad. The garden is located within ruined citadel walls, so you can imagine life in the city's second historic settlement whilst sipping your beer.

- Prague Beer Museum: A relatively new establishment, this cosy bar provides you with the ultimate beer tasting experience. A large selection of beers are on offer including flavoured varieties too.  http://www.praguebeermuseum.com/en/index.htm

Clubbing
- Palac Akropolis: Playing everything from electro beats to rock, drum'n'bass to funk, you're always guaranteed a great night out at Akropolis. Corridors lead to two separate rooms with their own DJ, bar and dance floor, in addition to the 'Big Hall' which opens for concerts. http://www.palacakropolis.com/

- Chapeau Rouge: With it's red glow and somewhat bizarre decor, some may consider this bar and club a little grungy and other's wickedly cool. Chapeau has three levels consisting of a ground floor bar, underground dance floor and second underground concert hall. Not far from Old Town Square, the crowd tends to be a more touristy and uni student one. http://www.chapeaurouge.cz/

- Cross Club: Although not in the centre of town (a short walk from the C (red) metro station 'Nadrazi Holesovice'), Cross Club is well worth the visit. A club unlike another other, it has an industrial anarchic feel with it's brilliant lighting and impressive metal sculptures and ornaments. http://www.crossclub.cz/cs/

- Meet Factory: Formally owned by Czech Railways, this vast industrial building now houses an international, multi-functional cultural centre and nightclub for concerts and DJs. While it is little out of the city (a couple of trams stops from B (yellow) metro station 'Smichovske Nadrazi'), it's definitely worth coming along to any of their big music events, when the club pulls in a large, energetic crowd. http://meetfactory.cz/ 

- Roxy: A popular dance club in central Prague that has hosted a number of international DJs. It has recently undergone a renovation and has been shut down a few times due to noise complaints - so be sure to check it's open before visiting. The club usually comes to life whenever there is a decent event on. http://www.roxy.cz/

- Druho Patro: A recently opened club not far from Roxy. The modern refurbishment, high-ceilings and large open space create a stylish apartment feel. The club can be busy or quiet, depending on what event/DJ is on. http://www.2patro.cz/

Art Galleries and Museums
- Museum Kampa: The converted Sova's Mills building now houses both permanent and temporary exhibitions of modern art in a stunning central location on the Vltava River. http://www.museumkampa.com/en/

- DOX: An independent museum presenting contemporary art and encouraging the growth of the local artistic community. Pieces are housed in a modern building and presented in an original manner. http://www.dox.cz/

- Narodni Galerie: From the outside this functionalist building may look like it doesn't offer much to the imagination, but once inside visitors can enjoy a wealth of art spanning various centuries and styles. http://www.ngprague.cz/

- Museum of Czech Cubism: The Czechs were pioneers in applying cubism to forms other than art. In the impressive 'House of the Black Madonna' building, visitors can view a range of Czech Cubist works. http://www.ngprague.cz/en/9/sekce/house-at-the-black-madonna/

- Museum of Communism: The museum presents an informative and vivid account of Communism in Czechoslovakia, with a particular focus on Prague. http://www.muzeumkomunismu.cz/

- Franz Kafta Museum: The paradoxical life of well-known Czech Jewish writer Franz Kafta is presented in a creative manner. http://kafkamuseum.tyden.cz/ShowPage.aspx?tabId=-1

Cinema
- Lucerna Theatre: An independent theatre presenting international and alternative movies (although some films may be released slightly later compared to commercial cinemas such as 'Cinestar' and 'Palac Cinemas') in an opulent Art Deco setting. Guests can enjoy drinks before or after in the large bar, which is also decorated in an Art Deco style. http://www.lucerna.cz/home.php

- Kino Svetozor: Another independent theatre presenting international and alternative movies (the same applies as above regarding some release dates). Located opposite Lucerna, Kino Svetozor has a retro 80's feel with a small bar area. http://www.kinosvetozor.cz/cz/


Theatre
- National Theatre: A national monument of Czech history and art, catching a performance in the grandeur of the National Theatre is an experience you'll never forget. Prominently located along the Vltava, it exudes opulence both inside and out. The great news is that it won't cost you an arm and a leg - tickets start from as little as 100Kc. http://www.nationaltheatre.cz/

- Statni Opera: Whilst smaller and less conspicuously located than the National Theatre, the Statni Opera  offers an equally impressive theatre experience. Drawing inspiration from the larger State Opera building in Vienna, theatre-goers can enjoy showcases of opera and ballet in a more intimate setting. http://www.opera.cz/en/


Shopping
- Palladium Shopping Centre: Take the B (yellow) metro line to 'Namesti Republiky' - the shopping centre is connected to the station exit.

- Na Prikope: A mostly pedestrianised shopping street that runs from the bottom of Wenceslas Square to The Powder Tower. It can be easily reached from A (green) metro station 'Mustek' - take the 'Na Prikope' exit.

- Novy Smichov: Take the B (yellow) line to 'Andel' and exit the tram side. Follow the hoards of people walking around the corner where the Paul bakery is.

- Pankrac Shopping Centre: Take the C (red) metro line to 'Pankrac' - the shopping centre is connected to the station exit.

- Chodov Shopping Centre: Take the C (red) metro line to 'Chodov' - the shopping centre is connected to the station exit.

- Galerie Harfa: Very recently opened, take the B (yellow) metro line to 'Ceskomoravska' and follow the signs.


Entertainment
- Prague Zoo: For a fun day out of animal viewing then head to Prague Zoo. The easiest way to get there is take the C (red) metro line to 'Nadrazi Holesovice' and then a zoo bus, which depart frequently from outside the metro station.

- Paddle-boating on the Vltava: For some fun on the river, grab a few friends and beers and enjoy seeing the city from a unique viewpoint.


Picnic/Nature spots
- Riegrovy Sady: Whilst smaller in comparison to other parks, Riegrovy's cosy size is part of it's charm. Winding paths separate green spaces, and leafy, flower-bearing trees provide both colour and coverage. Sporting two beer gardens, a refreshing beer is never too far away.

- Stromovka Park: A former Royal hunting ground, Stromovka is Prague's largest central park. Today the park is adorned by grand trees, wide open spaces and a lake complete with fountain. An ideal spot for a picnic or to escape the city hustle and bustle.

- Letna Park: A visit here may think you've stepped back in time! Avid rollerbladers zoom along the various paths and behind the giant red metronome, skateboarders congregate to practice their tricks. Perched atop the city, Letna offers wonderful views of Prague.

- Rajska Zahrada (Garden of Paradise): A relatively new garden, this natural Paradise is nestled in between Riegrovy Sady and Seifertova street. Wander through the perfectly manicured garden paths, fish-watch by the pond or take a seat by the tranquil waterfall and enjoy the stunning city views.

- Petrin Hill: Highlighted by the Petrin Observation Tower (a mini version of the Eiffel Tower), Petrin is a large green area located above Mala Strana. You can take the funicular up to it's summit, which in addition to to the observation tower also has landscaped gardens (check out the super-sized roses!), an observatory and hall of mirrors, then walk down. Or alternatively you can make the steep climb by foot along the winding paths, passing through pleasant sanctuary surrounds.

- Divoka Sarka: With it's rocky formations, flowing creeks, waterfalls and forest greenery, many would think Divoka Sarka was a natural haven far, far away. But in actual fact it is less than half an hour by tram from central Prague. (The easiest way to get there is take the A (green) metro line to Dejvicka and then a tram to stop Divoka Sarka.) The natural reservation's paths are ideal for walking and riding, or on a hot day head to the naturally-sourced swimming pool.

Viewpoints
- Letna Metronome: Located atop Letna, the giant red Metronome replaced the world's largest statue of Stalin and symbolizes the passage of time. The point offers great views of the adjacent Prague Castle and the Vltava River below.

- Zizkov TV Tower: For the highest views of Prague, climb the city's tallest and most wackiest structure. Home to famous Czech artist David Cerny's 10 black, giant computer babies, a short elevator ride will provide you with a 360 degree view.

- Astronomical Clock Tower: With it's hourly daily show, the Astronomical Clock is one of Prague's most iconic tourist attractions. A climb up the tower will provide you with superb views of the city's most famous square - Old Town Square - as well as of greater Prague.

- Strahov Monastery: For an awesome free view of Prague, head up to Strahov Monastery - the prominent, double-spired white building located between Petrin Hill and Prague Castle. The point can be reached by walking across from the Petrin Hill summit, or by walking up the steep road alongside Prague Castle. 


- Vysehrad: Head to the city's second historical settlement for a panoramic view of Prague from the South. Whilst there you can wander through the ruined citadel and landscaped gardens, as well as visit the Church of SS Peter & Paul (it's two blackened towers can be seen from around Prague) and the adjacent, richly adorned cemetery.


Venues for watching sports
- Riegrovy Sady Beer Garden (main): When the garden is open during the warmer months, a large screen plays various sports events daily. For big events (such as World Cups and The International Ice Hockey Championships) the beer garden heaves with action as Czechs and expats alike gather to support their team.

- Golden Star: If it's an indoor venue you're after for catching sport then head to the Golden Star. For big sporting events it is advised to book a table in advance.

- Old Town Square: For important national sporting events (i.e. a Czech team playing in a World Championship Final), large projection screens are set up in Old Town Square. It is a fantastic atmosphere  but be warned it will be extremely crowded so stick close by to friends.


Information/Inspiration
- Expats: Your go to guide for everything from rentals to jobs, food and drink reviews to events. www.expats.cz

- Prague TV: Offering very much the same information and services as expats, although Prague TV is more up to date with music events/concerts. http://prague.tv/

- Lime and Tonic: A relatively new website offering 'inspiring things to do'. Sign up so you can take advantage of special offers and freebies NB. Freebies are usually released on a Thursday morning so be sure to check the website then! http://www.limeandtonic.com/prague/en/

- Slevomat: a website offering daily sales (slevy = sale) and discounts on a variety of products and services. They are a plethora of other websites offering daily deals, but Slevomat is English friendly. http://www.slevomat.cz/en/praha

- Kudy z Nudy (Escape from Boredom): A website offering tips for trips in all regions in the Czech Republic. The country has an abundance of nature and historical sights to explore so get there and discover it! www.kudyznudy.cz

- Alakarte: Register to receives information on special dining offers and food festivals. http://www.alakarte.cz/en

- DPP (Department of Prague Transport): Click on this link (it is in Czech; metro = metro, tramvaye = trams, autobusy = buses) and on your left you will see a drop down menu of various transport options. Click on the chosen transport option to check routes and times. http://jrportal.dpp.cz/jrportal/

Events
- Christmas and Easter Markets: For the month leading up to Christmas and Easter, you can experience the true celebratory atmosphere at various markets around the city. The biggest and grandest are set up in Old Town Square, but there are smaller ones at Wenceslas Square and less touristy at Namesti Miru, Jiriho z Podebrad and Andel. The markets sell an array of traditional Czech products, gifts, decorations (at Easter you must look out for the intricately hand painted/decorated eggs), food and drinks.

- Prague Beer Festival: Each year this event is hosted in Letnany around May, and is best described as the Czech version of Oktoberfest - but on a much smaller scale. There are a large number of Czech beers on offer, along with Czech food, entertainment and attraction rides. http://www.ceskypivnifestival.cz/en/

- United Islands: An annual, free international music event that takes places on the islands (Kampa and Strelecky Ostrov) of Prague. Performers are a mix of up-and-coming and well-known, local and international. http://www.unitedislands.cz/en/home.html

- Burcak Festival: Burcak is a partially fermented or young wine with a sweet taste and look - but don't let this fool you as a few glasses will have more than a tipsy affect! Due to it's short shelf-life, Burcak is only available from August to November. So during this time look out for the various bars that serve it (they usually have signs out front) and the numerous Burcak festivals (which are essentially stalls set up in locations such as Jiriho z Podebrad and Namesti Miru) around Prague.

- Prague Shakespeare Festival: This brilliant event is put on in May by the Czech Republic's only professional English language classical theatre company. Performed in the open-air theatre in Vysehrad's ruined citadel, the location is simplistic yet stunning. Each year two different Shakespeare plays are performed by a young, high calibre cast. http://www.pragueshakespeare.cz/

- Code Mode: This event takes places every season and supports young, up-and-coming Czech fashion designers. A range of original, quirky and alternative fashion pieces and accessories are displayed for you to browse or buy. Code Mode is hosted at differing locations - to be sure of where and when the next one is check out their facebook group or website. http://codemode.cz/

Miscellaneous
- Look up and around: Prague is a stunning city architecturally, so whenever you are walking around take the time to look up and around because this is when you'll often come across it's subtle beauty.


Australian in Prague