"Blessed is the season [Christmas] which engages the whole world in a conspiracy of love." Hamilton Wright Mabi

It seems no matter where you are in the world two things are always the same at Christmas. Number 1 it is a celebratory time spent in the company of family and loved ones, and number 2 the lead up is usually an extremely busy time consisting of (for many - frantic) present shopping and various preparations for the big day and holidays surrounding it. Is for the latter reason that this post is a little late and briefer than usual, but nevertheless I felt it important to publish it before the year was out. So please read on to become educated on Czech Christmas traditions.


Before I launch into the traditions, I'd like to mention that this Christmas has been a very special one for me. Why? Because it is the first one I have spent in the Northern Hemisphere and I can now officially say I have experienced a white Christmas! (I am lucky in this regard, as I am told that it is not usual for snow to be around on Christmas day itself, but rather before and after.) Before this year, a typical Christmas involved much warmer and usually humid weather with free days spent shopping in air conditioned shopping centers, lazying on the beach and drinking cool drinks on long, hot nights out with friends. This year these things have been traded for cold, snowy weather, bundling up to browse the various outdoor Christmas markets and enjoying drinks (both hot and normal) to warm the soul.


It must be mentioned though, that while Australians are used to experiencing hot Christmases we are still very much aware of the notion of a traditional 'white' Christmas. Various cartoons, movies and products such as cards and decorations depict the stereotypical images associated with Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere. So for me, Christmas 2010 has been somewhat of a novelty and (pardon the cliche) rather magical, as I've finally been able to experience all the things that I have grown up seeing via various mediums.


Christmas Markets


Similar to the markets at Easter, there are various locations around Prague where you can meander through the stalls and soak up the Christmas atmosphere. Usually set up around four Sundays before Christmas, the largest markets can be found at Old Town Square (which has a giant, beautifully decorated Christmas tree) and Wenceslas Square. There are also smaller markets at Andel, Namesti Miru and Jiriho z Podebrad - the latter being where I enjoyed walking by each day and catching the Christmas carols coming from the singing Christmas tree whilst en route to the metro! The markets sell an array of traditional Czech products, Christmas gifts and decorations, along with typical foods such as trdlo (a delicious bread covered in cinnamon), langose (similar to a deep fried pizza dough which you can put various toppings on such as cheese, ketchup, garlic or nutella), roasted nuts, brambory (potato pancakes) and klobasa (sausages). But what I enjoyed the most was warming myself up with the various hot alcoholic drinks on offer. The most popular being mulled wine or 'svarak', which is essentially hot red wine with spices such as clove and cinnamon and fruit. Other hot drinks include grog (warm rum) and medovina, a warm alcoholic honey drink.

One of the various stalls selling traditional Czech products

in Old Town Square.

The beautifully decorated Old Town Square Christmas tree,

against the backdrop of the iconic and Gothic-spired Church

of Our Lady Tyn.

St Nicholas (Svaty Mikulas) Day


St Nicholas Day is December 6 but is celebrated the evening before on December 5, when St Nicholas or Svaty Mikulas brings gifts to children. St Nicholas is best described as the 'Czech version' of Santa Claus with his long white beard, and is typically dressed in a white Bishop's robe. He is accompanied by an Angel, which represents good children, and a Devil, which represents bad children. These three figures visit children and (much like Santa Claus) ask them if they have been good or bad. They may also read out a list (which has usually been pre-prepared by the child's parents) of the child's bad behaviour throughout the year. The children may then recite a poem and are rewarded with small gifts or sweets. Family friends or relatives often dress up as the three roles, but if one doesn't have the costumes or people to do this then I have been told there are now services where you can hire a St Nicholas, Angel and Devil. I went out to nearby Christmas markets during this particular evening and it was quite comical to watch the events unfold. There were many trios of St Nicholases, Angels and Devils walking around, surrounded by crowds of children eagerly and/or nervously awaiting their turn to speak with them. I'll never forget one particular Devil who was dressed rather scarily resulting in some kids crying in fear!

St Nicholas accompanied by the scarily-clad

devil. (Please excuse the photo quality - I was

surrounded by throngs of children!)

Christmas (Vanoce) Day


In the Czech Republic, Christmas is actually celebrated on the 24th December. On this day Czechs eat (well try to!) very little, whilst waiting in anticipation for the traditional Christmas dinner. Yet another difference to the West is that the traditional Czech dinner consists of the fish carp. A starter of fish soup (made from the carp's head) is served, followed by a main of carp which is usually deep fried and served plain (so not the tastiest but it is tradition after all) with potato and mayonnaise salad. Homemade sweets and biscuits usually follow and accompanying drinks may include sekt (Czech sparkling wine), wine and/or beer. After dinner children will be asked to vacate the room where the Christmas tree is, while they await for baby Jesus or Jezisek to deliver presents. It is Jezisek, not Santa Claus, that Czech children traditionally believe in. (However I have been told that as there is no stereotypical image of Jezisek - like Santa Claus in his big red suit - and as Western culture continues to influence Czech life, more and more Czech children are beginning to believe in Santa Claus.) The ringing of a bell signals that Jesisek has been, resulting in children running to open presents placed under the Christmas tree. On December 25 and 26 Czechs visit relatives where they exchange more presents, eat leftover carp and/or baked duck with cabbage and dumplings and generally be merry.

Traditional Czech Christmas dinner

Photo Source: www.pragueexperience.com

One final thing to note is that during the festive period Czechs wish one another a "Vesele Vanoce a Stastny Novy Rok!" (Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!) So to all my readers - wherever you may be - I wish you a slightly belated Vesele Vanoce a Stastny Novy Rok! Thank you for your support :)


Australian in Prague

"Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society." Mark Twain

For me (and I think it is fairly universally accepted), European fashion is synonymous with elegance, sophistication and style. It wields a considerable influence throughout the world. The fashion world waits in anticipation for the launch of the latest collections from highly successful European fashion houses such as Chanel and Louis Vuitton (France), Gucci and Prada (Italy). Their installments are projected in magazines and newspapers, on television and computer screens throughout the world. European fashion largely sets the tone for the coming season and inspires countless adaptations and knock offs in what is known as the 'trickle-down' effect. (For those who have seen the movie "The Devil Wears Prada" you'll remember Miranda's scathing monologue to Andy about how fashion trickles down from Runway magazine to runways, to department stores to bargain bins.)

Given it's close proximity to Western Europe, one might make the perfectly logical conclusion that the Czech Republic would be right on the receiving end of the latest fashion and trends. For those who had, unfortunately I must debunk this rather big misconception. I mean no harm by the following comments I am about to make and I am by no means saying this applies to all Czechs (quite often I'll see an impeccably dressed Czech man or woman), however more often than not I find myself internally raising the question, "What is that person wearing?!?" 

Perhaps it is a leftover mentality from the previous Communist days, where the production and distribution of clothes was centralized and largely limited to 'fellow' Communist countries. As a result fashion was largely functional, conservative and ultimately in keeping with the Communist 'classless' regime. But this regime fell over two decades ago and since then the fashion gates have been opened to Western European and British fashion brands such as Zara, Mango, Topshop and the ever-affordable H&M, along with many other brands from around the world. And not just opened a little, their presence along main streets and in shopping centers as well as advertisements around the city are all unmissable. For a fashion lover such as myself it is heaven to pop into any one of these shops to scope out (and often pick-up!) the latest fashion and trends. Why then are the Czechs not better dressers? The answer/s I will continue to seek, but for now I will put it down to (and I realize this is a gross generalization to make) an inability to dress well. In the meantime here are some of my favourite 'Czech fashion faux pas'...

Faux Pas #1 - The 'Puff' look


I am mostly referring to the 'puffer jacket' trend here. When I hear this item of clothing mentioned I automatically conjure up images of the classic The North Face puffer, which is mostly designed for extreme conditions such as very cold, wet and/or windy weather. Granted these conditions are experienced in Europe, so it would make sense that this item of clothing would become part of mainstream fashion. The reason I am opposed to the puffer jacket however, is because I believe it's not easy to design one that is visually appealing. Again, granted there are some well-tailored ones on the market. But more often than not I see people wearing cheap versions that are overly 'puffed', made of an overly shiny or plastic/space-like material and generally badly designed. What's more the 'puff' look is expanding to other areas of fashion as well - many shoes shops now sell 'puff' boots in a hideous array of 'spacey', shiny colours such as blue and gold.

A typical overly 'puffed' and shiny puffer jacket

Faux Pas #2 - The 'Socks and Sandals' look

This look is not just limited to sandals, it applies to any shoe that is open (i.e. sandals, ballets flats, thongs or strappy shoes) and hence should not be worn with socks! I don't know why, but the Czechs are a huge fan of this look. More often than not it is the older generation who fall victim to this, however I have seen many young women wearing socks with ballet flats. I will admit, I have gone to open my apartment building door and (previously only wearing socks) slipped on the nearest pair of shoes - which may just so have happened to have been open. But to wear this combination out in public for extended periods of time (i.e. to work or on a day's trip out) is just not acceptable in my books! If your feet are cold then I believe enclosed shoes will suffice, please save open shoes for summer.

A 'socks and sandals' victim

Faux Pas #3 - The '3/4 pants with boots and/or tights' look


This look particularly bothers me as it seems like an odd choice of clothing to combine. I was told (by a Czech friend) that it was a fashionable trend a few years back but why exactly I am unsure. To make matters worse, I often see woman wearing this look in a very colourful manner - picture cream 3/4 pants, bright red tights and black/brown boots. For me boots should be worn 1 of either 3 ways - 1. below full-length jeans/pants, 2. over full-length jeans/pants or 3. over tights with a skirt/dress. If you decide to wear 3/4 pants then it is usually because the weather is warmer so you can afford to show a little leg and thus wear open or strappy shoes. Similar to my logic with open shoes, if it is too cold to wear 3/4 pants then please wear full-length ones!

This is the only picture I could find - but you get the idea!

Faux Pas #4 - The 'Alternative' look

I went to a music festival not far from Prague over the Summer and it was here I realized just how common the 'alternative' look is. Never in my life have I seen so many white-skinned people with dreadlocks and/or shaved sections of hair. While the hair isn't always part of the look, the Docs (Dr Martens), grungey clothes (in more ways than one - they often look like they need a wash!) and oddly shaped plastic protruding from both male and female earlobes usually are. Albeit I was at a festival where some rock bands where playing, but the 'alternative' look is not just limited to music events. It is very often visible around Prague or other places I happen to visit. When I asked a Czech friend as to why people dress like this, she told me it was because they chose to as it is considered an 'underground' and hence 'fashionable' trend. 

Faux Pas #5 - The 'leftover from the 80s' look

This look is mostly worn by older generations and involves clothes which are literally still being worn from the 80s. I know 'everything old is new again' and 'vintage' is a major trend right now, but this does not apply to everything. Victims of the 'leftover from the 80s' look wear ill-fitting clothes, jeans and patterns that are completely out of fashion and often have an unflattering hairstyle to match. In the summer, I have seen some men (both young and old) wearing short shorts (either denim or material) with a tucked-in shirt for work! My advice for those sporting such a look - invest in a wardrobe update!

So there you have it, some examples of some rather 'distinct' Czech fashions I have come across many times since moving here. Again I must repeat, not all Czechs fall victim to these fashion faux pas. Although I think it is fair to say that the Czech Republic is a long way off from becoming one of the fashion capitals of the world - but then again it wouldn't be the Czech Republic if it was!

Australian in Prague

Living in the Czech Republic - A General Overview

"What is it like living in the Czech Republic?" This is a question that I have been asked by many of late. Having also been invited to contribute an article to Gooverseas.com (http://www.gooverseas.com/go-abroad-blog/better-know-country-czech-republic/8626), I decided to write a post that would give readers a general overview of life in the country I feel very lucky to currently call 'home'. 

With it's central location, the lands which today constitute The Czech Republic have long served as a gateway to surrounding Europe. The first Czechs arrived in Bohemia (an area still used to describe the West) in around 200BC. In the 9th Century the Czech state emerged, resulting in the formation of a kingdom that would for many centuries be an influential player on the European political landscape. Subsequently the Czech Republic is a country steeped in history. The architectural grandeur and historical importance of it's capital Prague, it's equally fascinating and attractive cities and towns, and 2000+ chateaus and castles dotted throughout are all constant reminders of it's former opulent days.

Places of Interest

Whilst undeniably important, the Czech Republic's appeal is not just limited to it's history. With it's three regions of Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia boasting a multitude of landscapes, it's no wonder the Czechs love nothing more than to get outdoors with their bikes, rollerblades, skis or simply just on foot! In the western area of Bohemia, visitors can discover distinct rock formations such as those in Cesky Raj (Bohemian Paradise) and Ceske Svycarsko (Czech Swiss) and captivating mountainous regions such as Krkonose (home to the country's highest mountain 'Snezka' at 1,602 km) and Sumava.  There are also various places of interest such as the famed spa town of Karlovy Vary (each year it hosts the 'International Karlovy Vary Film Festival', which is often referred to as the 'B-grade' version of Cannes), the former silver-mining town of Kutna Hora (it is home to a striking and rather macabre Ossuary aka 'bone church' comprised of approximately 40 000 skeletons!) and my personal favourite - the enchanting and fairytale-like town of Cesky Krumlov. To the east, the regions of Moravia and Silesia are largely comprised of rolling hills, highlands and low mountain ranges. The land is particularly fertile in the South, where the Czech's answer to Tuscany lies - the Moravian Wine Region. There are various towns throughout complete with their own vineyards and cellars, which during the harvest season host many wine-related festivals.

Beer Culture

Whilst on the topic of alcohol, the ever-important role that 'pivo' (beer) plays in Czech life must also be mentioned. The Germans may have Oktoberfest, but it is actually the Czechs who drink more per capita than other nation in the world. They also lay claim to another important statistic - the development of the world's first lager 'Pilsner' in the Bohemian town of Plzen. And with Plzen recently winning the 'European Capital of Culture' for 2015, it's clear that all of Europe can vouch for Czech beer! There are 100s of breweries throughout the country and a plethora of beers available, ensuring a favourite brew for all and converting even the non-beer drinkers such as myself! What's more the good news continues where price is concerned, on average you can buy half a litre for around 30 Kc - that equates to just over 1 euro!

Prague

As with most countries, the capital of Prague is the epicentre of action. Whilst smaller in comparison to other European capitals, it's intimate size is all part of it's charm. Stunning historically, culturally and architecturally, visitors are never short on things to do. Prague has an array of prominent sites such as the imposing Prague Castle, ornately statued Charles Bridge and beautiful Old Town Square. Throughout the city there are many parks, which during the warmer months heave with action. An impressive range of museums and theatres showcase the depth of Czech cultural talent. Prague also has a thriving nightlife with innumerable bars, restaurants and clubs. If all else fails, one can simply meander along the cobble-stoned streets and revel in the 'City of 100 Spires'.

And for those wishing to stay more permanently, Prague is an extremely livable city. It boasts a highly efficient and integrated public transport system comprised of metros, trams and buses. Coupled with the city's cosy size, residents are never more than a few metro stops from the action. The majority of Prazaks are English-friendly, meaning that newcomers with absolutely no knowledge of the Czech language are able to get by. But as with any foreign country it helps to learn some basics. (NB. The Czech language is considered one of the hardest to learn. Also that in smaller Czech towns one can not rely on the locals to speak English as they would in Prague.)

Employment

With the English language widely used and in demand, they are subsequently many English-speaking jobs on offer in Prague in a variety of industries. TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) is perhaps the most common. A plethora of language schools and TEFL training schools have resulted in Prague becoming a European hotspot for all things TEFL. And with a growing number of English native speakers jumping onboard the employment wagon, the expat culture is also thriving. Expats.cz is the 'go-to' guide for English-speaking expats living in the Czech Republic. Listing everything from jobs to flat rentals, second hand furniture to news and reviews, it serves as trusty companion to those navigating a life in the Czech Republic.

So there you have it, a general overview of life in the Czech Republic. It is by no means a comprehensive guide but I hope it has provided some insight to those who had asked the question, as well as to those who may have been a little curious about life in this cool, central European country.

Australian in Prague

Charles Bridge with Prague Castle in the background

The enchanting, fairy tale-like town of Cesky Krumlov

The macabre Ossuary (bone church) - Kutna Hora

The chic town of Karlovy Vary