"Blessed is the season [Christmas] which engages the whole world in a conspiracy of love." Hamilton Wright Mabi

It seems no matter where you are in the world two things are always the same at Christmas. Number 1 it is a celebratory time spent in the company of family and loved ones, and number 2 the lead up is usually an extremely busy time consisting of (for many - frantic) present shopping and various preparations for the big day and holidays surrounding it. Is for the latter reason that this post is a little late and briefer than usual, but nevertheless I felt it important to publish it before the year was out. So please read on to become educated on Czech Christmas traditions.


Before I launch into the traditions, I'd like to mention that this Christmas has been a very special one for me. Why? Because it is the first one I have spent in the Northern Hemisphere and I can now officially say I have experienced a white Christmas! (I am lucky in this regard, as I am told that it is not usual for snow to be around on Christmas day itself, but rather before and after.) Before this year, a typical Christmas involved much warmer and usually humid weather with free days spent shopping in air conditioned shopping centers, lazying on the beach and drinking cool drinks on long, hot nights out with friends. This year these things have been traded for cold, snowy weather, bundling up to browse the various outdoor Christmas markets and enjoying drinks (both hot and normal) to warm the soul.


It must be mentioned though, that while Australians are used to experiencing hot Christmases we are still very much aware of the notion of a traditional 'white' Christmas. Various cartoons, movies and products such as cards and decorations depict the stereotypical images associated with Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere. So for me, Christmas 2010 has been somewhat of a novelty and (pardon the cliche) rather magical, as I've finally been able to experience all the things that I have grown up seeing via various mediums.


Christmas Markets


Similar to the markets at Easter, there are various locations around Prague where you can meander through the stalls and soak up the Christmas atmosphere. Usually set up around four Sundays before Christmas, the largest markets can be found at Old Town Square (which has a giant, beautifully decorated Christmas tree) and Wenceslas Square. There are also smaller markets at Andel, Namesti Miru and Jiriho z Podebrad - the latter being where I enjoyed walking by each day and catching the Christmas carols coming from the singing Christmas tree whilst en route to the metro! The markets sell an array of traditional Czech products, Christmas gifts and decorations, along with typical foods such as trdlo (a delicious bread covered in cinnamon), langose (similar to a deep fried pizza dough which you can put various toppings on such as cheese, ketchup, garlic or nutella), roasted nuts, brambory (potato pancakes) and klobasa (sausages). But what I enjoyed the most was warming myself up with the various hot alcoholic drinks on offer. The most popular being mulled wine or 'svarak', which is essentially hot red wine with spices such as clove and cinnamon and fruit. Other hot drinks include grog (warm rum) and medovina, a warm alcoholic honey drink.

One of the various stalls selling traditional Czech products

in Old Town Square.

The beautifully decorated Old Town Square Christmas tree,

against the backdrop of the iconic and Gothic-spired Church

of Our Lady Tyn.

St Nicholas (Svaty Mikulas) Day


St Nicholas Day is December 6 but is celebrated the evening before on December 5, when St Nicholas or Svaty Mikulas brings gifts to children. St Nicholas is best described as the 'Czech version' of Santa Claus with his long white beard, and is typically dressed in a white Bishop's robe. He is accompanied by an Angel, which represents good children, and a Devil, which represents bad children. These three figures visit children and (much like Santa Claus) ask them if they have been good or bad. They may also read out a list (which has usually been pre-prepared by the child's parents) of the child's bad behaviour throughout the year. The children may then recite a poem and are rewarded with small gifts or sweets. Family friends or relatives often dress up as the three roles, but if one doesn't have the costumes or people to do this then I have been told there are now services where you can hire a St Nicholas, Angel and Devil. I went out to nearby Christmas markets during this particular evening and it was quite comical to watch the events unfold. There were many trios of St Nicholases, Angels and Devils walking around, surrounded by crowds of children eagerly and/or nervously awaiting their turn to speak with them. I'll never forget one particular Devil who was dressed rather scarily resulting in some kids crying in fear!

St Nicholas accompanied by the scarily-clad

devil. (Please excuse the photo quality - I was

surrounded by throngs of children!)

Christmas (Vanoce) Day


In the Czech Republic, Christmas is actually celebrated on the 24th December. On this day Czechs eat (well try to!) very little, whilst waiting in anticipation for the traditional Christmas dinner. Yet another difference to the West is that the traditional Czech dinner consists of the fish carp. A starter of fish soup (made from the carp's head) is served, followed by a main of carp which is usually deep fried and served plain (so not the tastiest but it is tradition after all) with potato and mayonnaise salad. Homemade sweets and biscuits usually follow and accompanying drinks may include sekt (Czech sparkling wine), wine and/or beer. After dinner children will be asked to vacate the room where the Christmas tree is, while they await for baby Jesus or Jezisek to deliver presents. It is Jezisek, not Santa Claus, that Czech children traditionally believe in. (However I have been told that as there is no stereotypical image of Jezisek - like Santa Claus in his big red suit - and as Western culture continues to influence Czech life, more and more Czech children are beginning to believe in Santa Claus.) The ringing of a bell signals that Jesisek has been, resulting in children running to open presents placed under the Christmas tree. On December 25 and 26 Czechs visit relatives where they exchange more presents, eat leftover carp and/or baked duck with cabbage and dumplings and generally be merry.

Traditional Czech Christmas dinner

Photo Source: www.pragueexperience.com

One final thing to note is that during the festive period Czechs wish one another a "Vesele Vanoce a Stastny Novy Rok!" (Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!) So to all my readers - wherever you may be - I wish you a slightly belated Vesele Vanoce a Stastny Novy Rok! Thank you for your support :)


Australian in Prague

"[Spring is] when life's alive in everything." Christina Rossetti

"Spring is in the air". Growing up in Australia I never could fully appreciate this saying. Particularly in my home state of 'sunny' Queensland, where the winters are mild (single digit numbers would result in many reaching for an extra blanket or the heater switch!) and the seasons gradually merge from one to another. But having arrived in the Czech Republic at the end of one of the coldest and longest winters on record, I feel I can now really appreciate it.


Prague in winter is truly magnificent. Picture the historical Charles Bridge against a backdrop of the grand Prague Castle, boulevards and buildings all blanketed in a layer of snow. But it was when the last traces of winter melted away that I really felt the city come alive. Squares, parks and gardens turn from white to green, walkways which were once dangerous to walk become walkable, trees and flowers in every colour imaginable blossom and quite literally every man and his dog venture outside. People (myself included!) are much more relaxed. In fact I have found myself looking up and taking in the surroundings more, rather than keeping my head down in an attempt to dodge the cold.


After experiencing the bitterness and chill of winter, you feel as though the coming of Spring is almost like a celebration - and celebrate it the Czechs do! One thing I have loved since coming here is experiencing the various traditional Czech celebrations - and Spring was my first opportunity to do so.


Easter


Easter represents the end of winter and the beginning of Spring. In Prague, markets in various locations are set up in the weeks leading up to and after Easter. Stalls sell hand-crafted gifts such a wooden toys, Czech crystal and glass, candles, jewellery, embroidered cloth, puppets and the most common of all - hand-painted easter eggs. A plethora of food and drink is on offer such as barbecued sausages, pigs roasted on spits, crepes and my personal favourite - Langose, which is a deep-fried dough topped with your choice of either Nutella, garlic or cheese.


As for the Easter weekend itself there are many traditions, although they are more prominent in Czech villages. Girls prepare easter eggs (kraslice), which are decorated intricately with watercolours, stickers, bees wax, feathers and straw. The boys prepare Easter whips (pomlazka) by braiding together osier twigs. These whips are then used on a 'whipping trip', which entails boys stopping at the homes of family and friends and whipping the legs of each girl in the house. Though in the afternoon, the girls may get their revenge by dousing the boys in cold water. The whipping and dousing is performed to rid illness and bad spirits.


Witch Burning Night


Originally a Pagan tradition, 'Witch Burning Night' is an event which takes place on April 30. Witch effigies and broomsticks were burnt to ward off witches, who were said to be responsible for the length of winter. The tradition continues today with Czechs gathering around bonfires with friends, food and drink. As the witches and broomsticks disappear, so too do the last traces of winter.


May Day


Celebrated on May 1, 'May Day' is officially a Labour Day holiday. During Communism it was an occasion for showing your distaste of capitalism, however today it is primarily seen as another opportunity to celebrate Spring. One of the oldest customs is the erection of maypoles, usually made from conifers. Again this is a tradition more prominent in Czech villages, who compete with one another to see whose is the biggest.


For romantics, it is popular for couples to visit the statue of the Czech Poet Macha on Petrin Hill in Prague. I was also told by many of another romantic tradition, which involves boys kissing girls under a cherry blossom tree. The ensuing result is said to be the 'blossoming' of the girl and romance.


Happy Spring!


Australian in Prague

Old Town Square Easter Markets, Prague

My favourite tree - Walnut

Another favourite - Cherry Blossom