Sunday, May 16, 2010

"[Spring is] when life's alive in everything." Christina Rossetti

"Spring is in the air". Growing up in Australia I never could fully appreciate this saying. Particularly in my home state of 'sunny' Queensland, where the winters are mild (single digit numbers would result in many reaching for an extra blanket or the heater switch!) and the seasons gradually merge from one to another. But having arrived in the Czech Republic at the end of one of the coldest and longest winters on record, I feel I can now really appreciate it.


Prague in winter is truly magnificent. Picture the historical Charles Bridge against a backdrop of the grand Prague Castle, boulevards and buildings all blanketed in a layer of snow. But it was when the last traces of winter melted away that I really felt the city come alive. Squares, parks and gardens turn from white to green, walkways which were once dangerous to walk become walkable, trees and flowers in every colour imaginable blossom and quite literally every man and his dog venture outside. People (myself included!) are much more relaxed. In fact I have found myself looking up and taking in the surroundings more, rather than keeping my head down in an attempt to dodge the cold.


After experiencing the bitterness and chill of winter, you feel as though the coming of Spring is almost like a celebration - and celebrate it the Czechs do! One thing I have loved since coming here is experiencing the various traditional Czech celebrations - and Spring was my first opportunity to do so.


Easter


Easter represents the end of winter and the beginning of Spring. In Prague, markets in various locations are set up in the weeks leading up to and after Easter. Stalls sell hand-crafted gifts such a wooden toys, Czech crystal and glass, candles, jewellery, embroidered cloth, puppets and the most common of all - hand-painted easter eggs. A plethora of food and drink is on offer such as barbecued sausages, pigs roasted on spits, crepes and my personal favourite - Langose, which is a deep-fried dough topped with your choice of either Nutella, garlic or cheese.


As for the Easter weekend itself there are many traditions, although they are more prominent in Czech villages. Girls prepare easter eggs (kraslice), which are decorated intricately with watercolours, stickers, bees wax, feathers and straw. The boys prepare Easter whips (pomlazka) by braiding together osier twigs. These whips are then used on a 'whipping trip', which entails boys stopping at the homes of family and friends and whipping the legs of each girl in the house. Though in the afternoon, the girls may get their revenge by dousing the boys in cold water. The whipping and dousing is performed to rid illness and bad spirits.


Witch Burning Night


Originally a Pagan tradition, 'Witch Burning Night' is an event which takes place on April 30. Witch effigies and broomsticks were burnt to ward off witches, who were said to be responsible for the length of winter. The tradition continues today with Czechs gathering around bonfires with friends, food and drink. As the witches and broomsticks disappear, so too do the last traces of winter.


May Day


Celebrated on May 1, 'May Day' is officially a Labour Day holiday. During Communism it was an occasion for showing your distaste of capitalism, however today it is primarily seen as another opportunity to celebrate Spring. One of the oldest customs is the erection of maypoles, usually made from conifers. Again this is a tradition more prominent in Czech villages, who compete with one another to see whose is the biggest.


For romantics, it is popular for couples to visit the statue of the Czech Poet Macha on Petrin Hill in Prague. I was also told by many of another romantic tradition, which involves boys kissing girls under a cherry blossom tree. The ensuing result is said to be the 'blossoming' of the girl and romance.


Happy Spring!


Australian in Prague




Old Town Square Easter Markets, Prague




My favourite tree - Walnut



Another favourite - Cherry Blossom

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