"There shall be eternal summer in the grateful heart." Celia Thaxter

Australia, know the world over as the 'land down under', is often referred to as being 'upside down' - sometimes even a little 'behind'. While I may take offence to such comments (i.e. when directed towards our culture, fashion, politics etc.), it is certainly true in terms of seasons. So while friends and family back home have been reveling in the arrival of Spring (it began September 1) and it's warmer weather to boot, I have consequently been ushering out the last of the Central European Summer. There are admittedly a few more official days of Summer (five but who's counting?!) with the Northern Hemisphere's beginning on the Solstice (June 21) and ending on the Equinox (September 21). However sadly it appears Prague has enjoyed the last of it's warm Summer temperatures. 


2010 Czech Summer

The Czech Republic Summer this year has unfortunately been a bit hit and miss. Some blame it on the eruption of the Icelandic Volcano earlier in the year, while others simply attribute it to an 'off' year. Whatever the cause, it is undeniable that the start of September also brought with it a sudden shift in weather. It was almost as if overnight that Prazaks traded light, summery attire in favour of warmer, heavy clothing. I know this all too well as, perhaps in an attempt to will-on the warmth, I inappropriately dressed in a skirt and light jacket one cool summer's day. Well after an uncomfortable day of inadequate coverage, I soon learnt my lesson. Unless there is an unexpected heat wave or an Indian Summer (a period of warm, sunny weather in the Northern Hemisphere that occurs late in Autumn but before the first snow fall) - tights/jeans and a jumper/warm jacket are now the order of the day!

So while I get back into the routine of layering up and with the last of the (minimal!) warm days freshly in mind, I thought it fitting to indulge in a little 'Summer reminiscing'. I must firstly mention that this Summer was a rather different experience for me. The most obvious difference being that it occurred mid year rather than around Christmas/New Year. What I found more noticeable though was my position geographically. Apart from a week's holiday to the coastal playground of Croatia, the majority of my Summer has been spent in a country entirely surrounded by land. And not just a couple of hundred kilometers worth, the nearest coastline being several hours by car/bus/train! For someone who grew up only ever a few minutes drive to the beach, it took some adjusting. 


Australian Beach Culture

Now I am by no means a professional surfer, however the beach has always been a part of my life. From the ages of 7-12 I was a keen 'Nipper' (a young person who participates in surf education and activities) at my local surf club. In more recent years the beach was a place where I could relax, cool-off, catch-up with friends and even nurse a hangover! On a scorching hot Summer's day, nothing beat heading down to your local and alternating between a dip amongst the waves and drying/tanning session on the soft, grainy (not pebble!) sand. As most people do in the place they live, I took it for granted. As much as I love my life here, one thing I truly miss (apart from family and friends of course!) is that glorious yellow strip. 

Prague Summer Lifestyle

I have to hand it to the non-coastal Europeans though, they are not ones to throw their hands up in despair. Why let a lack of coastline stop you from enjoying the sun - simply trade sand for grass! It struck me as quite bizarre at first, walking by parks complete with stretched-out sun-seekers. Sporting an array of attire (bikinis, shorts, even underwear!) and quite often with pivo (beer) and klobasa (sausage) in hand, these seekers only grew in numbers. Not one to miss out on some sunshine and desperately craving that familiar feeling of warmth on my skin, I soon got over my initial reservations and joined them. Thinking back now, some of the fondest memories I have of this Summer involve lazy afternoons spent drinking and in the company of friends on our own little slice of 'green heaven'. 

Below are a few places where such memories were created. A combination of parks and open spaces beside a 'watering hole', they all have one thing in common - that soft, lush plant known as grass!

Riegrovy Sady

Those who have read my previous posts will know that Riegrovy Sady is my local. On a blistering hot day sometimes you can't beat proximity, therefore many a Summer afternoons have been spent here. Smaller than other Prague Parks, Riegrovy's cosy size is part of it's charm. Winding paths section off separate green areas, with large leafy and flower-bearing trees providing both colour and coverage. With two beer gardens (one large and complete with benches and sport's screen, the other smaller and nestled amongst trees), a refreshing beer is never too far away! 

A local sun seeker caught unawares in Riegrovy.

Stromovka Park

With it's wide open spaces, Stromovka is Prague's largest central park. A former Royal hunting ground during Medieval times, about the only animal you'll find here now in abundance are Prazak dogs! Wise, grand trees adorn the park and a lake complete with fountain provide a tranquil setting for those wishing to escape the humidity and hustle and bustle of city life.

Stromovka's tranquil lake surrounded by grand trees.

Letna Park

A visit here may have you thinking you've stepped back into the 90s! Avid rollerbladers zoom along the various paths and behind the giant red metronome (it replaced the world's largest statue of Stalin and symbolizes the passage of time), skateboarders congregate to practice/show-off their latest tricks. Perched above the city, Letna also offers wonderful views of the adjacent Prague Castle and Vltava River below. 

Letna's giant red metronome and skate area.

Zlute Lazne

Located on the bank of the Vltava River, Zlute Lazne (Yellow Spa) is a popular sports and leisure center. Recently renovated, the area has been popular with Prazaks for nearly a hundred years. Those wanting to be active can partake in beach volleyball, beach football, table tennis and petanque or take a dip in the Vltava. And for those wishing to indulge in a little relaxation, there is a large lawn to lay on - with energy only needed to be exerted when making your way to one of the various food/refreshment stands! 

The grassy bank complete with sunbakers.

Slapy - Nova Rabyne

Located about an hour's bus journey (or much less by car!) from Prague, Slapy is one of the largest dam's in the Czech Republic. Approximately 44km in length, there are various recreation facilities, cottages, hotels and camping grounds along it. Nova Rabyne is one of the livelier areas favoured by young. There is a large grassy area to tan on, a waterside bar where you can grab a drink and listen to the  pumping music and of course the dam itself to enjoy. On a sticky, hot day the water is refreshingly cool, and with beautiful surrounding scenery your eyes will also be treated to a delight. 

Nova Rabyne

Divoka Sarka

With it's rocky formations, flowing creeks, waterfalls and forest greenery, many would think that Divoka Sarka was a paradise far far away. In actual fact it is less than half an hour by tram from central Prague. Visitors can again choose to be active with the natural reservation's paths ideal for walking and riding, or (like me!) stretch out and relax. I enjoyed a cracking Summer's day at the natural swimming pool, which is sourced by the extremely 'fresh' stream. Set amongst the rocky mountains and surrounded by stunning nature, it felt as if I was a world away.  

A cracking hot day at Divoka Sarka

So there you have it, a collection of places where I was able to enjoy some Summer fun. While they were far from 'beachy' experiences, I certainly had fun adopting the Central European way of basking in the sun!

Australian in Prague

"[Spring is] when life's alive in everything." Christina Rossetti

"Spring is in the air". Growing up in Australia I never could fully appreciate this saying. Particularly in my home state of 'sunny' Queensland, where the winters are mild (single digit numbers would result in many reaching for an extra blanket or the heater switch!) and the seasons gradually merge from one to another. But having arrived in the Czech Republic at the end of one of the coldest and longest winters on record, I feel I can now really appreciate it.


Prague in winter is truly magnificent. Picture the historical Charles Bridge against a backdrop of the grand Prague Castle, boulevards and buildings all blanketed in a layer of snow. But it was when the last traces of winter melted away that I really felt the city come alive. Squares, parks and gardens turn from white to green, walkways which were once dangerous to walk become walkable, trees and flowers in every colour imaginable blossom and quite literally every man and his dog venture outside. People (myself included!) are much more relaxed. In fact I have found myself looking up and taking in the surroundings more, rather than keeping my head down in an attempt to dodge the cold.


After experiencing the bitterness and chill of winter, you feel as though the coming of Spring is almost like a celebration - and celebrate it the Czechs do! One thing I have loved since coming here is experiencing the various traditional Czech celebrations - and Spring was my first opportunity to do so.


Easter


Easter represents the end of winter and the beginning of Spring. In Prague, markets in various locations are set up in the weeks leading up to and after Easter. Stalls sell hand-crafted gifts such a wooden toys, Czech crystal and glass, candles, jewellery, embroidered cloth, puppets and the most common of all - hand-painted easter eggs. A plethora of food and drink is on offer such as barbecued sausages, pigs roasted on spits, crepes and my personal favourite - Langose, which is a deep-fried dough topped with your choice of either Nutella, garlic or cheese.


As for the Easter weekend itself there are many traditions, although they are more prominent in Czech villages. Girls prepare easter eggs (kraslice), which are decorated intricately with watercolours, stickers, bees wax, feathers and straw. The boys prepare Easter whips (pomlazka) by braiding together osier twigs. These whips are then used on a 'whipping trip', which entails boys stopping at the homes of family and friends and whipping the legs of each girl in the house. Though in the afternoon, the girls may get their revenge by dousing the boys in cold water. The whipping and dousing is performed to rid illness and bad spirits.


Witch Burning Night


Originally a Pagan tradition, 'Witch Burning Night' is an event which takes place on April 30. Witch effigies and broomsticks were burnt to ward off witches, who were said to be responsible for the length of winter. The tradition continues today with Czechs gathering around bonfires with friends, food and drink. As the witches and broomsticks disappear, so too do the last traces of winter.


May Day


Celebrated on May 1, 'May Day' is officially a Labour Day holiday. During Communism it was an occasion for showing your distaste of capitalism, however today it is primarily seen as another opportunity to celebrate Spring. One of the oldest customs is the erection of maypoles, usually made from conifers. Again this is a tradition more prominent in Czech villages, who compete with one another to see whose is the biggest.


For romantics, it is popular for couples to visit the statue of the Czech Poet Macha on Petrin Hill in Prague. I was also told by many of another romantic tradition, which involves boys kissing girls under a cherry blossom tree. The ensuing result is said to be the 'blossoming' of the girl and romance.


Happy Spring!


Australian in Prague

Old Town Square Easter Markets, Prague

My favourite tree - Walnut

Another favourite - Cherry Blossom