"If a nation's culture survives, then so too does the nation." Jan Mladek

Laid-back, friendly, hard-working, competitive, patriotic. These are just some of the words that are commonly associated with Australians. The last is one I especially agree with. Australian patriotism is as much ingrained in our make-up as the sun and surf, and subsequently is evident in all areas of life. You only have to look at any international sporting event us 'Aussies' partake in, you'll always find a sea of green and gold fans fervently chanting "Aussie! Aussie! Aussie! Oi! Oi! Oi!" Or perhaps on ANZAC Day (a national day of remembrance on April 25 - initially for WWI Australian and New Zealand Army Corps but now commemorating all those who have died in military operations) where parades around the country are attended, BBQs lit and flags proudly displayed by both young and old in celebration of our country's independence.

There is no denying it, Australia is a great country to live in. But it is also a fairly young country and as such has a young history. Certainly one of the reasons I am living on this side of the world is because I am drawn to its history. Europe is very much a land of contrasts - contrasting landscapes, cities and people. It is history though that ultimately shapes people, and what a long and eventful one Europe boasts. Throughout the ages there have been many great discoveries and transformations in the arts, science, technology, infrastructure and so on. But with the good also comes the bad. Countless wars have been waged motivated by religion, land, ethnicity and ideology. In the 20th Century alone the names of Hitler, Stalin, Mussolini and Milosevic spring to mind, whose dictatorships resulted in much devastation and loss of human life. 


Czech History

With its central location in Europe, the Czech Republic has naturally been directly affected by many of these conflicts. In modern history, both the Nazi and Soviet Regimes have wielded their devastating power over the Czech people. From 1939 to 1945 the Nazis occupied Bohemia and Moravia (Czech parts of the then Czechoslovakia state). While Prague and indeed most of the Czech Republic were largely physically unscathed, the same can not be said for the Czech Jewish Community. Suffering much the same fate as Jews around Europe, some 80 000 Czech Jews lost their lives during WWII in holding and concentration camps.* As WWII drew to a close Czechoslovakia proclaimed independence in 1945, but it was to be short-lived. After the 1946 elections the Czech Communist Party formed a Coalition Government. Two years later they staged a coup d'etat, which essentially began the nation's long decline into decades of Communism. It was an era where restrictions were imposed in almost all areas of Czechs' lives, severely limiting their choice in travel, occupation, food, fashion, culture and political thought. It would not be until the end of 1989 when the Czechs would escape the suffocating mechanics of Communism, after the famous week-long demonstrations known as the Velvet Revolution. Initially an underground movement sparked by growing dissent towards the Communist regime, the Velvet Revolution or Gentle Revolution was a mostly peaceful movement, with the exception of November 17, 1989. Riot-police suppressed a non-violent student demonstration in Prague's Wenceslas square, which (much to the Communist's dismay) resulted in a swelling of support to the anti-Communist cause. The Revolution was largely led by writer and playwright Vaclav Havel. Havel garnered the support of important figures as well as university students, who further spread the message of political dissatisfaction amongst those in the working community and surrounding villages and towns. The result was a series of protests in Prague and other Czechoslovakian cities such as Brno, Ostrava and Bratislava, which culminated in the standing down of the Communist Party and the election of Havel as the first President of Czechoslovakia (and later The Czech Republic) post-Communism.*


Prague's Historical Reminders

In Prague there are constant reminders of these dark times. At the foot of Petrin Hill is the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, a provoking sculpture by Olbram Zoubek depicting 'broken' men in various stages and descending a set of stairs. Atop Letna Park and figuratively so the entire city, is artist Vratislav Karel Novak's giant red metronome. It replaced the world's largest statue of Joseph Stalin and symbolises the passage of time. Outside the National Museum a wooden cross is embedded in the walkway, marking the exact spot where university student Jan Palach set himself on fire and died in protest against the Soviet invasion in 1969.* But perhaps the most powerful reminder of all can be found in the silent form of art.

Museum Kampa

Over the weekend I visited yet another art gallery, Museum Kampa, and again I was blown away by the quality of art. Since living here, I have found the Czech Republic to be somewhat of a 'hidden European jewelbox', and have consequently enjoyed discovering its many gems. Originally the complex of the historical Sova's Mills, this gem has since been transformed into a Museum for Central European Modern Art. A striking, white, modern building with a clever and original layout, Museum Kampa houses a unique collection of art accumulated over the lifetime of Meda and her late-husband Jan Mladek (who is responsible for the title of this post). As Jan's quote so clearly articulates, the Mladek's believed that culture is the basis for a nation's survival. The collection hence reflects this belief, showcasing the works of artists who were persecuted, exiled or driven underground during Communism.

The collection included an impressive range of central European (mostly Czech) artists. The quality and presentation of the art was amazing, which had obviously been meticulously selected and grouped together. However it was the emotionally-evocative nature of the works which I found to be the most powerful. Discontentment, frustration, despair, numbness - these are just some of the raw emotions I felt and I believe the works intended to portray. The two biggest contributors of work though were Czechs Frantisek Kupka and Otto Gutfreund. I mentioned Kupka in one of my previous posts after first viewing his work at Narodni Galerie. Well I was further impressed by this artist's talent. A pioneer of abstract art, Kupka used a variety of materials and styles and as such has a wide and impressive repertoire of work. The second largely featured artist is Otto Gutfreund, who was a prominent Czech sculptor. Despite his short-lived life (he drowned from exhaustion while swimming in the Vltava River at the age of 38!),  he produced a great number of drawings and sculptures. I was especially drawn to his sculptures, which depicted extremely expressive faces and bodies. 

I have to also mention the location of Museum Kampa, as it made my experience all the more memorable. Situated on the bank of the Vltava River on Kampa Island (a green park area separated from Mala Strana by a small canal known as 'The Devil's Stream' or 'Prague's Little Venice'), the location was supremely prime. Making my way through the museum I'd often look out the window and find myself laying eyes on many of Prague's major sights - Prague Castle in all its grandeur, Charles Bridge with its blackened stone statues, Petrin Tower- the 'mini Eiffel Tower of Prague', The National Theatre with its intricate, gold roof and in the distance Old Town Square. You may think I'm locally biased, but there is really no better city backdrop in the world. Sometimes in all the hustle and bustle of life I forget just how spectacular and picturesque Prague is, but it is moments like these that make me love it all the more.

Below are some photos of the Museum itself, it's unforgettable views and a few of the works I found to be the most emotionally-evocative. A timeline of important 20th Century events in Czech history follows, with photos of the constant historical reminders around Prague.


Australian in Prague

The modern architecture of Kampa Museum

The eccentric row of yellow penguins on the Vltava River, which 

are lit up at night and lead the eye towards the famous Charles Bridge.

"Although they keep silent, the cry aloud; their silence is more 

expressive than words" - Jozef Lukomski

"Family Portrait" - Theodor Pistik

"We demand bread" - a widely-used slogan 

in anti-Communist demonstrations.

Simple and effective layout of Museum Kampa

Timeline of Important 20th Century Czech Events

- Beginning of the 20th Century: Czechs are part of the Hasburg Austro-Hungarian Empire.

- 1918: After the defeat of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in WWI Czechoslovakia is given it's independence on 28 October. Comprised of Bohemia, Moravia and Slovakia, Tomas Masaryk is the first President.

- 1938: In October the first Nazis arrive, occupying the German-speaking area of Sudetenland.

- 1939: The Nazis occupy Bohemia and Moravia in March, with Slovakia proclaiming independence as a Nazi 'puppet state'.

- 1939-1945: Some 80 000 Czech Jews die in Nazi holding and concentration camps.

- 1945: After WWII Czechoslovakia is reestablished as an independent state.

- 1946: During elections the Czech Communist Party receive the highest percentage of votes and form a coalition government. 

-1948: With the support of the Soviet Union, the Czech Communist Party stage a coup d'etat making Czechoslovakia a Communist country.

- 1960s: Czechoslovakia enjoys a slightly more 'liberal' Communist period led by Party leader Alexander Dubcek. During this time of 'socialism with a human face' there is resurgence in culture and relaxing of media restrictions. 

-1968: In what is referred to as the 'Prague Spring', Dubcek's period of liberal reforms ends when Soviet tanks invade Czechoslovakia in August. Dubcek is replaced by the orthodox Gustav Husak, beginning 20 years of Soviet influence.

-1969: In protest of the Soviet invasion, Czech student Jan Palack makes a sacrificial suicide pact with other students. He sets himself on fire in Wenceslas Square on 16 January and dies. Another two students - Jan Zavij also in Wenceslas Square and Evzen Plocek in Jihlava - die too by setting themselves on fire in the same year.

- 1977: Playwright Vaclav Havel, along with  242 other leading intellectuals and artists, sign a document called Charta 77 and begin campaigning for basic human rights.

- 1989: On 17 November violent police attack a peaceful protest rally in Wenceslas Square led by Vaclav Havel. It results in a swelling of public support and the staging of more demonstrations in Prague and other major Czechoslovakia cities. This week-long movement is known as the Velvet Revolution and results in the resigning of the Communist Government and the election of Havel as the first president of post-Communist Czechoslovakia.

- 1993: The Slovaks and Czechs peacefully split on 1 January, with Havel elected as the first President of the Czech Republic. He remains President until 2003 when he stands down and current President Vaclav Klaus takes his seat. 

Prague's Historical Reminders

Memorial to the Victims of Communism

Memorial to student Jan Palack - who burnt himself to death 

at this exact location (Wenceslas Square, 1969) in protest 

of the 1968 Soviet invasion.

The giant red metronome atop Letna Park, symbolising 

'the passage of time.'

Sources: http://www.czechsite.com/history.html, http://www.everyculture.com/Cr-Ga/Czech-Republic.html, Prague Encounter - Lonely Planet 2007, Museum Kampa

"Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole." Roger Caras

Growing up in Australia I find you tend to be either a dog or a cat lover. Personally I was the latter. My family always had cats and still does to this day. I believe your experiences - or lack thereof - with animals ultimately shape how you interact with them. As a result I didn't always feel comfortable around dogs, (particularly the bigger varieties!) unused to their lively and playful nature and sometimes even wary of being attacked.


Dog Hospitality


Since moving to Prague though that has all changed. I mentioned in one of my earlier posts how once Spring arrives quite literally 'every man and his dog' comes out and I wasn't kidding. In the warmer months Prague becomes 'dog city'. From dachshunds to dobermans, pugs to poodles and everything in between - everywhere you look there are dogs. And their presence isn't just limited to parks and pathways, dogs are accommodated for in bars, cafes and restaurants, on the metro, buses and trams, and even the zoo! Yes it's true, when I visited Prague Zoo a few weeks back I was shocked to see visitors walking through the grounds with their dogs in tow. What I found the most hilarious though was the provision of dog water bowls, which where randomly placed along the zoo's walkways. Back home you'd never find dog hospitality to this extreme, but this is Europe after all- the land of the liberal!


Dog Behaviour


What has also surprised me is their behaviour. Considering the number of dogs here in Prague, for the most part, they behave very well. Very rarely do you hear dogs barking, they don't fight one another and not once have I felt uncomfortable or that I was going to be attacked. In fact I've become quite the opposite, admiring the different breeds and often smiling (sometimes even 'cooing'!) to myself whenever an adorable little creature walks by. I remember vividly one such creature when I was waiting for the bus one February morning. Still adjusting to the European winter, my numbness was soon forgotten when my attention was diverted to a woman standing beside me. Cradled in her arms was a shivering little terrier, dressed in a Desperate Housewives-style, pink terry-towelling tracksuit complete with a matching pink clip in it's hair. Well, I melted. I guess you could say Prague has changed me, I've essentially become a dog-lover!


I believe my changed perception of dogs all boils down to the friendly and non-threatening way they interact with one another and humans. I've definitely noticed a difference between here and back home. That's not to say that dogs are badly behaved in Australia, but you do hear more barking (just ask my Dad!) and of more dog attacks/maulings. Perhaps this is because they are so well accommodated for here in Prague. Dogs are almost as much as part of the fabric of society as humans are and as such their interactions are, 99% of the time, positive in nature.


Here are just some of the dogs laws/rules in place in Prague...


- Dogs are allowed to ride on public transport (metros, buses, trams) provided they are on a leash and have a muzzle. Otherwise if they are small enough, they can be placed in a small bag or cage.


- In most public places, dogs must be kept on a leash at all times. In some parks they are allowed to roam free, but more often than not owners turn a blind eye to this rule.


- Owners are supposed to pick up dog feces, with fines applying if caught by the police. With the amount of 'matter' sometimes present on the streets this rule appears to not be heavily enforced, but nevertheless owners are encouraged to 'do the right thing' by the provision of 'poop' bags and bins around the city.


- Dogs are allowed in bars, cafes, restaurants and shops at the owner's discretion. At first it was rather bizarre to enter a bar and see a dog sitting beside his owner - I often wondered if I had drunk too much! But now I don't bat an eyelid, in fact (as informed by a dog-owner friend of mine) they often receive more superior service than their owner. I've been told that on arrival, it's not uncommon for a bowl of water to be fetched for the dog right away while the owner waits to be attended to!


So as you can see Prague is very much a dog-loving city. Definitely since living here this mentality has rubbed off on me, to the point where I could see myself someday soon becoming a dog-owner.


Below are some fun, dog-related snaps I've taken during my time here in Prague.


Australian in Prague

If was going to get a dog then a pug it would be!

A terrier, similar to the one I saw dressed in pink.

The adorable 'Ekko' - winning hearts everywhere he goes!

Hilarious! Dog water bowl at Prague Zoo.

"Time is the most valuable thing a man can spend." Laertius Diogenes

800m or four minutes - that is the approximate distance/time between my apartment front door and nearest metro platform. You'd think after living here for more than four months it's a journey I'd have down pat, but in fact I am notorious for not allowing enough travel time in the mornings. I've lost count the amount of times I've been caught running along the footpath, awkwardly balancing a massive bag full of books and with passersby looking on in bewilderment. Or perhaps running the gauntlet or 'rat race' as I like to call it during rush hour at Mustek (one of the three metro transfer stations), in an attempt to catch a connecting train. More often than not I'll make it, usually jumping on board just moments before the doors close. If not then it's not long before another will soon arrive, rumbling through the metallic-coloured, 'bubble-wrapped' walls of the tunnel. Screeching to a halt, the doors spring open and I join a sea of people leaving and entering the red and grey carriages - this is Prague public transport for you!


Prague Transport Network


And what an impressive transport system it is, easily rivalling many of the world's biggest cities. Comprised of metros, trams and buses, it is a network that moves thousands daily using nearly 2000 vehicles*. The metro is the very heart of the system, which operates on 3 lines (A: Green, B: Yellow and C: Red) and utilizes 54 stations on just over 59km of track*. Buried deep underground, it is the quickest and most efficient way to travel around the city. A tram network of 26 daytime and 9 night routes, covering an overall distance of approximately 559km*, compliments the metro transport system. It is also joined by the operation of some 182 daytime and 13 night bus routes, covering approximately 2 123km*.


It is a network that I have quickly grown to love and rely heavily on. Before moving overseas I parted with my beloved little, silver car. It was a rather sad occasion not only as it was my first vehicle, but also because it represented my first taste of independence. Despite its loss I am yet to really miss it. I believe this is entirely due to my non-existent need for a car here in Prague, where inhabitants have access to a world-class, integrated transport system. Below are just some of the reasons why I think it is so great...


Frequency


During the week, particularly at the busiest times of day, you never have to wait too long between transport. At peak times metros run every 2-3minutes, and trams and buses on main routes run every few minutes. The frequency is a godsend and has saved me on numerous occasions when I have failed to allow 'adequate' travel time. Granted, the weekend transport schedule is not as frequent (Sunday metro waits stretch out to a whole 9 minutes!) but in any case Prazaks tend to be much more relaxed and carefree once the weekend comes around!

Affordability

Back home in Australia you could easily spend around $30-$35 (sometimes even more, depending on the distance/number of people) on a cab fare after a night out on the town. For the same price, a monthly pass gives me unlimited use of all three forms of transport (metro, trams and buses). Yes you read that right- not a day or week but a whole MONTH's worth of travel. Given the highly sociable Prague lifestyle and abundance of pubs, bars and clubs on offer I have, effectively, already saved myself hundreds of dollars!

Ease and Simplicity


I have been fortunate to travel to and consequently trial many other European cities' transport systems, and when comparing them to Prague's I always come to the same conclusion - Prague's trumps them. While it did take me a little while to familiarize myself with the network (let's not forget you have a new language to overcome as well!) one thing I've come to appreciate is it's ease and simplicity. Up-to-date bus and tram timetables and routes are signposted at each stop and each metro station has the direction of travel and route clearly marked. If, say for example, you can't take a particular bus/tram/metro then an alternative route or mode of transport is easily found. I especially notice this when returning back from travels, it is a real comfort to know that I can confidently navigate myself around town.


Cleanliness and Character


Yet another aspect I love is the transport system's cleanliness and character. Given the number of people it serves on a daily basis, the majority of the network's vehicles and stations are in immaculate condition. As for character, the metro provides plenty. I mentioned earlier on about the 'metallic-coloured, bubble-wrapped walls' of the Mustek station. It's architecture is consistent with all of the stations on the Green line, whose facades vary in colour and can best be described as giant metallic 'bubble-wrap'. The Red and Yellow lines may not be decorated in such an avant-garde fashion, but are also rather quaint with their unique tiled walls.


What's more, waiting for the next metro at many major stations is never a bore with large screens to entertain you. In the corner a clock counts down to the next train and various advertisements are displayed. But what I most look forward to is seeing the hilarious, cartoon 'public service announcements'. Although I often can't read the text, it's not hard to work out the messages they broadcast. Adorable little cartoon characters depicting 'inconsiderate' people such as drunks, the homeless and rowdy teenagers intermittently appear. Text flashes afterwards in what I can only assume to be something along the lines of "Please be considerate of other passengers..."


Night Services


The final reason I love Prague public transport is the provision of adequate night services. The metro stops at midnight and doesn't start back up until around 5am, but there are a number of night trams and buses on offer. Again while they are not frequent (usually one every half an hour) and serve different routes, they are reliable and cover many areas. I have had many-a-fun nights trying to navigate myself back home after a night out. It's not always the funnest when the temperature is freezing but it sure beats waiting in a ridiculously long cab line or for a bus that may/may not come!


So while I endeavour to work on my time management skills, it is good to know that in the meantime I can rely on Prague's exceptional, highly-efficient and integrated public transport system!


Australian in Prague


* As of 31 December 2006, source: http://www.dpp.cz/en/company-profile/

The 3 lines of the Prague Metro system

Jiriho Z Podebrad - one of the 'metallic, bubble-wrapped' 

stations on the Green Line.

"If you have knowledge, let others light their candles at it." Margaret Fuller

As teachers, our fundamental goal is to impart knowledge to our students. It is a responsibility that requires much planning and patience, but many find rewarding. When teaching English to foreigners this goal is best achieved by applying the PPP (Present, Practice, Produce) method, which is particularly effective when learning new grammar and vocabulary. Sometimes though, especially with students of higher levels, I find that you can't beat natural, free-flowing conversation. As a result, I have adopted a combined approach to teaching, incorporating both structure and fluid communication in my lessons.

A great benefit of this approach is the exchanging of knowledge between both teacher and student. In the last four months my knowledge of the Czech Republic and even the world has improved considerably, with students sharing information on a range of topics such as history, politics, lifestyle and the ever-useful 'tips' on places to visit. For the most part, students are only too happy and often rather 'chuffed' to impart their knowledge - particularly with an inquisitive person like myself!  It is something I am most grateful for and feel very fortunate to experience in my current European surrounds.


Czech 2010 National Elections

With the Czech National Elections having taken place over the weekend, discussions with some of my students over the last couple of weeks naturally turned political - and I have to admit I rather enjoyed them! I am by no means a politician or economist but I do like to be aware of what is happening around me. Back home whenever an election was called I would of course take an active interest, but the constant bombardment of campaigning would eventually begin to irritate me. However living in a foreign country, where I speak very little of the language (I am learning Czech but I am a beginner!) it was a little weird and somewhat unnatural not being able to fully understand what was happening. There were of course obvious signs of campaigning - various billboards, posters and closer to the election day people actively out campaigning - but a lack of language equates to a massive barrier. So I was only too happy to discuss politics with students who were willing (and they were!) and as a result feel much more well-informed.


Election Outcome

So what was the outcome of the election? It was predicted that the Socialist Česká strana sociálně demokratická or ČSSD would control government and while they did have the highest percentage of votes (22.08%), they do not have a majority (100+ seats) in the Parliament. Even with their combined 'alliance' with the Communist Komunisticka strana Cech a Moravy or KSCM (11.27%) , it is not enough to hold Government. What is looking more probable is the coalition of the 'right-side', which is comprised of the Socialist's major rival in the 2010 election race - the Democratic Obcanska demokraticka strana or ODS (20.22%) and newly formed parties Tradice Odpovednost Prosperita 09 or Top 09 (16.7%) and the Veci verejne or VV (10.88%). ODS leader Peter Necas has thrown his hat into the Prime Minister's ring and, with the support of the other coalition leaders, it is likely he will take out the position.

As mentioned before, the Socialist ČSSD (led by leader Jiri 'The Bulldozer' Paroubek) were predicted to win with a percentage of around 30%. They ran a rather negative campaign, attacking rivals and attempting to persuade voters with promises of extra welfare payments and decreased living costs such as free doctors visits. On the other hand, the right-sided parties ran rather honest campaigns, instead focusing on cutting spending and adopting more 'responsible' spending policies in order to combat the current European economic climate. 

European Economic Climate

The European climate is currently a rather unstable one, with Euro heavyweights Germany and France effectively having to help 'bail-out' countries such as Greece, Italy, Portugal and Spain due to bad economic policy. Greece's economy in particular is largely suffering due to excessive spending (i.e. in the civil servant sector - civil servants were receiving an extra 13th and even 14th months salary!) and inaccurate reportings of debt levels to the European Bank. And Europeans are obviously feeling the crunch. Usually inclined to vote towards the 'left', a large number of European Governments are currently right-aligned.

The impression I got from many was that if ČSSD were to control government then the Czech Republic may face a similar fate to Greece. Various forecasts suggested that the Czechs were perhaps getting caught up in the promises being made by the Socialists, which made many very nervous. However the actual outcome reflects that Czechs have appeared to put economic stability ahead of personal interest. 

Certainly when I returned back to Prague from a weekend trip away (I was 'sadly' not present for the voting!) I felt a collective sense of relief among those I spoke with. While official negotiations are still taking place, it seems as though after some time of political unrest there may once again be some stability in the Czech Government. This follows a year when embarrassingly during their allocated holding of the EU Government, their own National Government was overthrown by the disgruntled Socialists.

Of course though, only time will tell. Universally politicians don't have the best track record of following through with their promises, but we will inevitably see how it all plays out!

Australian in Prague