Friday, September 17, 2010

"There shall be eternal summer in the grateful heart." Celia Thaxter

Australia, know the world over as the 'land down under', is often referred to as being 'upside down' - sometimes even a little 'behind'. While I may take offence to such comments (i.e. when directed towards our culture, fashion, politics etc.), it is certainly true in terms of seasons. So while friends and family back home have been reveling in the arrival of Spring (it began September 1) and it's warmer weather to boot, I have consequently been ushering out the last of the Central European Summer. There are admittedly a few more official days of Summer (five but who's counting?!) with the Northern Hemisphere's beginning on the Solstice (June 21) and ending on the Equinox (September 21). However sadly it appears Prague has enjoyed the last of it's warm Summer temperatures. 


2010 Czech Summer


The Czech Republic Summer this year has unfortunately been a bit hit and miss. Some blame it on the eruption of the Icelandic Volcano earlier in the year, while others simply attribute it to an 'off' year. Whatever the cause, it is undeniable that the start of September also brought with it a sudden shift in weather. It was almost as if overnight that Prazaks traded light, summery attire in favour of warmer, heavy clothing. I know this all too well as, perhaps in an attempt to will-on the warmth, I inappropriately dressed in a skirt and light jacket one cool summer's day. Well after an uncomfortable day of inadequate coverage, I soon learnt my lesson. Unless there is an unexpected heat wave or an Indian Summer (a period of warm, sunny weather in the Northern Hemisphere that occurs late in Autumn but before the first snow fall) - tights/jeans and a jumper/warm jacket are now the order of the day!

So while I get back into the routine of layering up and with the last of the (minimal!) warm days freshly in mind, I thought it fitting to indulge in a little 'Summer reminiscing'. I must firstly mention that this Summer was a rather different experience for me. The most obvious difference being that it occurred mid year rather than around Christmas/New Year. What I found more noticeable though was my position geographically. Apart from a week's holiday to the coastal playground of Croatia, the majority of my Summer has been spent in a country entirely surrounded by land. And not just a couple of hundred kilometers worth, the nearest coastline being several hours by car/bus/train! For someone who grew up only ever a few minutes drive to the beach, it took some adjusting. 


Australian Beach Culture

Now I am by no means a professional surfer, however the beach has always been a part of my life. From the ages of 7-12 I was a keen 'Nipper' (a young person who participates in surf education and activities) at my local surf club. In more recent years the beach was a place where I could relax, cool-off, catch-up with friends and even nurse a hangover! On a scorching hot Summer's day, nothing beat heading down to your local and alternating between a dip amongst the waves and drying/tanning session on the soft, grainy (not pebble!) sand. As most people do in the place they live, I took it for granted. As much as I love my life here, one thing I truly miss (apart from family and friends of course!) is that glorious yellow strip. 


Prague Summer Lifestyle

I have to hand it to the non-coastal Europeans though, they are not ones to throw their hands up in despair. Why let a lack of coastline stop you from enjoying the sun - simply trade sand for grass! It struck me as quite bizarre at first, walking by parks complete with stretched-out sun-seekers. Sporting an array of attire (bikinis, shorts, even underwear!) and quite often with pivo (beer) and klobasa (sausage) in hand, these seekers only grew in numbers. Not one to miss out on some sunshine and desperately craving that familiar feeling of warmth on my skin, I soon got over my initial reservations and joined them. Thinking back now, some of the fondest memories I have of this Summer involve lazy afternoons spent drinking and in the company of friends on our own little slice of 'green heaven'. 

Below are a few places where such memories were created. A combination of parks and open spaces beside a 'watering hole', they all have one thing in common - that soft, lush plant known as grass!

Riegrovy Sady

Those who have read my previous posts will know that Riegrovy Sady is my local. On a blistering hot day sometimes you can't beat proximity, therefore many a Summer afternoons have been spent here. Smaller than other Prague Parks, Riegrovy's cosy size is part of it's charm. Winding paths section off separate green areas, with large leafy and flower-bearing trees providing both colour and coverage. With two beer gardens (one large and complete with benches and sport's screen, the other smaller and nestled amongst trees), a refreshing beer is never too far away! 



A local sun seeker caught unawares in Riegrovy.

Stromovka Park

With it's wide open spaces, Stromovka is Prague's largest central park. A former Royal hunting ground during Medieval times, about the only animal you'll find here now in abundance are Prazak dogs! Wise, grand trees adorn the park and a lake complete with fountain provide a tranquil setting for those wishing to escape the humidity and hustle and bustle of city life.



Stromovka's tranquil lake surrounded by grand trees.

Letna Park

A visit here may have you thinking you've stepped back into the 90s! Avid rollerbladers zoom along the various paths and behind the giant red metronome (it replaced the world's largest statue of Stalin and symbolizes the passage of time), skateboarders congregate to practice/show-off their latest tricks. Perched above the city, Letna also offers wonderful views of the adjacent Prague Castle and Vltava River below. 



Letna's giant red metronome and skate area.

Zlute Lazne

Located on the bank of the Vltava River, Zlute Lazne (Yellow Spa) is a popular sports and leisure center. Recently renovated, the area has been popular with Prazaks for nearly a hundred years. Those wanting to be active can partake in beach volleyball, beach football, table tennis and petanque or take a dip in the Vltava. And for those wishing to indulge in a little relaxation, there is a large lawn to lay on - with energy only needed to be exerted when making your way to one of the various food/refreshment stands! 



The grassy bank complete with sunbakers.

Slapy - Nova Rabyne

Located about an hour's bus journey (or much less by car!) from Prague, Slapy is one of the largest dam's in the Czech Republic. Approximately 44km in length, there are various recreation facilities, cottages, hotels and camping grounds along it. Nova Rabyne is one of the livelier areas favoured by young. There is a large grassy area to tan on, a waterside bar where you can grab a drink and listen to the  pumping music and of course the dam itself to enjoy. On a sticky, hot day the water is refreshingly cool, and with beautiful surrounding scenery your eyes will also be treated to a delight. 



Nova Rabyne

Divoka Sarka

With it's rocky formations, flowing creeks, waterfalls and forest greenery, many would think that Divoka Sarka was a paradise far far away. In actual fact it is less than half an hour by tram from central Prague. Visitors can again choose to be active with the natural reservation's paths ideal for walking and riding, or (like me!) stretch out and relax. I enjoyed a cracking Summer's day at the natural swimming pool, which is sourced by the extremely 'fresh' stream. Set amongst the rocky mountains and surrounded by stunning nature, it felt as if I was a world away.  



A cracking hot day at Divoka Sarka


So there you have it, a collection of places where I was able to enjoy some Summer fun. While they were far from 'beachy' experiences, I certainly had fun adopting the Central European way of basking in the sun!

Australian in Prague