Before I launch into the traditions, I'd like to mention that this Christmas has been a very special one for me. Why? Because it is the first one I have spent in the Northern Hemisphere and I can now officially say I have experienced a white Christmas! (I am lucky in this regard, as I am told that it is not usual for snow to be around on Christmas day itself, but rather before and after.) Before this year, a typical Christmas involved much warmer and usually humid weather with free days spent shopping in air conditioned shopping centers, lazying on the beach and drinking cool drinks on long, hot nights out with friends. This year these things have been traded for cold, snowy weather, bundling up to browse the various outdoor Christmas markets and enjoying drinks (both hot and normal) to warm the soul.
It must be mentioned though, that while Australians are used to experiencing hot Christmases we are still very much aware of the notion of a traditional 'white' Christmas. Various cartoons, movies and products such as cards and decorations depict the stereotypical images associated with Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere. So for me, Christmas 2010 has been somewhat of a novelty and (pardon the cliche) rather magical, as I've finally been able to experience all the things that I have grown up seeing via various mediums.
Christmas Markets
Similar to the markets at Easter, there are various locations around Prague where you can meander through the stalls and soak up the Christmas atmosphere. Usually set up around four Sundays before Christmas, the largest markets can be found at Old Town Square (which has a giant, beautifully decorated Christmas tree) and Wenceslas Square. There are also smaller markets at Andel, Namesti Miru and Jiriho z Podebrad - the latter being where I enjoyed walking by each day and catching the Christmas carols coming from the singing Christmas tree whilst en route to the metro! The markets sell an array of traditional Czech products, Christmas gifts and decorations, along with typical foods such as trdlo (a delicious bread covered in cinnamon), langose (similar to a deep fried pizza dough which you can put various toppings on such as cheese, ketchup, garlic or nutella), roasted nuts, brambory (potato pancakes) and klobasa (sausages). But what I enjoyed the most was warming myself up with the various hot alcoholic drinks on offer. The most popular being mulled wine or 'svarak', which is essentially hot red wine with spices such as clove and cinnamon and fruit. Other hot drinks include grog (warm rum) and medovina, a warm alcoholic honey drink.
One of the various stalls selling traditional Czech products
in Old Town Square.
The beautifully decorated Old Town Square Christmas tree,
against the backdrop of the iconic and Gothic-spired Church
of Our Lady Tyn.
St Nicholas (Svaty Mikulas) Day
St Nicholas Day is December 6 but is celebrated the evening before on December 5, when St Nicholas or Svaty Mikulas brings gifts to children. St Nicholas is best described as the 'Czech version' of Santa Claus with his long white beard, and is typically dressed in a white Bishop's robe. He is accompanied by an Angel, which represents good children, and a Devil, which represents bad children. These three figures visit children and (much like Santa Claus) ask them if they have been good or bad. They may also read out a list (which has usually been pre-prepared by the child's parents) of the child's bad behaviour throughout the year. The children may then recite a poem and are rewarded with small gifts or sweets. Family friends or relatives often dress up as the three roles, but if one doesn't have the costumes or people to do this then I have been told there are now services where you can hire a St Nicholas, Angel and Devil. I went out to nearby Christmas markets during this particular evening and it was quite comical to watch the events unfold. There were many trios of St Nicholases, Angels and Devils walking around, surrounded by crowds of children eagerly and/or nervously awaiting their turn to speak with them. I'll never forget one particular Devil who was dressed rather scarily resulting in some kids crying in fear!
St Nicholas accompanied by the scarily-clad
devil. (Please excuse the photo quality - I was
surrounded by throngs of children!)
Christmas (Vanoce) Day
In the Czech Republic, Christmas is actually celebrated on the 24th December. On this day Czechs eat (well try to!) very little, whilst waiting in anticipation for the traditional Christmas dinner. Yet another difference to the West is that the traditional Czech dinner consists of the fish carp. A starter of fish soup (made from the carp's head) is served, followed by a main of carp which is usually deep fried and served plain (so not the tastiest but it is tradition after all) with potato and mayonnaise salad. Homemade sweets and biscuits usually follow and accompanying drinks may include sekt (Czech sparkling wine), wine and/or beer. After dinner children will be asked to vacate the room where the Christmas tree is, while they await for baby Jesus or Jezisek to deliver presents. It is Jezisek, not Santa Claus, that Czech children traditionally believe in. (However I have been told that as there is no stereotypical image of Jezisek - like Santa Claus in his big red suit - and as Western culture continues to influence Czech life, more and more Czech children are beginning to believe in Santa Claus.) The ringing of a bell signals that Jesisek has been, resulting in children running to open presents placed under the Christmas tree. On December 25 and 26 Czechs visit relatives where they exchange more presents, eat leftover carp and/or baked duck with cabbage and dumplings and generally be merry.
Traditional Czech Christmas dinner
Photo Source: www.pragueexperience.com
One final thing to note is that during the festive period Czechs wish one another a "Vesele Vanoce a Stastny Novy Rok!" (Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!) So to all my readers - wherever you may be - I wish you a slightly belated Vesele Vanoce a Stastny Novy Rok! Thank you for your support :)
Australian in Prague
