Over the last year I have become many things - a teacher of the English language, a beginner of the Czech language, a confident navigator of the city of Prague, an enthusiastic writer (albeit a hobby), completely financially independent, a tenant extremely appreciative of her new found domestic freedom and a novice but nevertheless keen cook. But perhaps the most important skill I have acquired (given it's undeniable prominence in the Czech Republic) is that of a beer drinker. Yes I must confess, before I came here I did not enjoy drinking beer. Now this may come as a surprise given that I am from Australia where drinking alcohol is very much a part of our social culture. But the truth is I simply did not like it. No, I'd take some kind of vodka concoction or glass of wine please.
And my arrival to Prague didn't result in a sudden, magical affinity for beer either. Like many adult tastes it was one acquired over time. On nights out I was all too often asked, "You don't drink beer?!" Soon to be followed with something along the lines of ,"But this country has the best and cheapest beer!" Despite knowing that such comments where usually bias in nature (they mostly came from long time expats or Czechs), I began to feel a touch of guilt. As time went on I was becoming increasingly aware of the ever-important role that 'pivo' (beer) plays in Czech life.
Czech beer prestige
European nations such as the Oktoberfest-hosting Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands may all be synonymous with beer, but it is actually the Czechs who drink more per capita than any other nation in the world. Research from Kirin Holdings indicates that the Czech Republic leads the way in individual beer consumption, with Czechs drinking 156.9 liters per person per year - a good 25 liters more than the runners-up of Ireland.*1 The Czechs also lay claim to another important statistic - the development on the world's first lager 'Pilsner' in the Bohemian town of Plzen. But more on that later. And those familiar with the popular American beer Budweiser might not know that it was originally a Czech brand-name beer produced in 1795 in the Bohemian town of Ceske Budejovice. (They began exporting it to the US in 1875. Anheuser-Busch started using the name, then registered it in the US several years later resulting in many trademark disputes ever since.*2)
Taste and affordability
Perhaps the Czechs' inherent ability to drink beer comes from the historical importance it holds, or perhaps it is due to other contributing factors such as it's taste and affordability. After a few months I decided (personally and maybe in a slightly societal-conforming way) to jump onboard the beer drinking wagon. It took several attempts, but on one warm Summer's afternoon in the Riegrovy Sady beer garden a conversion occurred. As I sat drinking beer after beer, I began to finally appreciate the smooth, delightful taste of Czech beer. Since then I haven't looked back and if anything my purse has even thanked for me it. Yes, the good news continues as far as price is concerned. Not only is Czech beer superior in taste, it is also extremely cheap. On average you can buy a half liter of beer for around 35Kc, which equates to 1.4 Euro or less than $2 Australian. Compared to beer prices back home, it results in a considerably cheaper night out on the town and thus smaller dent in your overall drinking balance!
'Degrees' measurement and varieties
Czech beer is also very signature in that it is measured in 'degrees' rather than by percentage. The method was devised by Professor Balling in the 17th Century*3 and represents the malt extract used during the brewery process rather than the alcoholic content. As a 'rough' guide, the alcoholic content of a beer can be calculated at somewhere between one third and one half of it's degree content. So a 10-degree beer is approximately 3.5-4% alcohol and a 12-degree is around 4.5-5%. There are also two different varieties of beer, svelte (light) and cerne (dark). Light being the paler, lager variety and dark being the sweeter and more full-bodied variety. Dark is often very popular with women and I have been told by many Czechs (although I believe it to be a myth...) that if I a female drinks dark beer then her chest will, overtime, become more sizeable!
Plzen
So with my new found love of beer, a couple of weekends ago I found myself undertaking an eagerly-awaited jaunt to the holy grail of lager - Plzen. ('Pilsen' is the city's old German name and what it is referred to in English) Recently winning the 'European Capital of Culture' for 2015, I was keen to see what all the fuss was about. Well I am happy to say that Plzen more than lived up to my expectations. The town itself is historical in more ways than one - i.e. not just in regards to beer! Small but definitely not lacking in charm, Plzen boasts a number of star-worthy attractions. Proudly protruding from the main square is The Gothic Cathedral of St Bartholomew, and with it's 102.6m high church tower is the tallest in the Czech Republic. Built in a Moorish-Romanesque style and with an ornate red/orange brick, The Big Synagogue is the third largest in the world. And as equally informative as it's compelling Middle Ages' location is The Brewery Museum, which is the first of it's kind in the world.
Pilsner Urquell Brewery
Pilsner Urquell Brewery
But without a doubt the biggest star of them all is the world famous Pilsner Urquell Brewery. Established in 1842, it is here where (in the same year) the world's first bottom-fermented and amber coloured beer - lager - was created. With it's popularity quickly reaching cosmic levels, it subsequently spawned many copycat varieties. This resulted in the brewery changing it's name to Pilsner Urquell (or Plzensky Prazdroj in Czech), meaning 'original source Pilsner'. It would turn out to be an extremely appropriate name as the brewery (referred to as the 'birthplace of brewing') is responsible for influencing around 70% of the world's beer today. 50 years later (1892) the iconic Jubilee Gate was built out the front, which on close inspection of the Pilsner label can be found on the brand's red and gold emblem.
Today the brewery is 50 hectares in size and over the years has undergone several updates. The most recent being the addition of a state of the art bottling plant, which at full capacity can package 120 000 bottles per hour. During the brewery tour I saw the plant in action and it was phenomenal to watch. The tour also presented an unique exposition on the beer's ingredients (which is made up of 92% water, barley and malt - all uniquely sourced from the Pilsen area), it's signature processes (which involves heating the beer up to 600 degrees three times) and a visit to both the historic and modern brewhouse. Overall it was extremely informative- especially for a previous non beer-drinker such as myself! - and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Below are some photos from Plzen. A brief description of some of the most popular Czech beers follows, including ones that I have come to personally know and enjoy.
Today the brewery is 50 hectares in size and over the years has undergone several updates. The most recent being the addition of a state of the art bottling plant, which at full capacity can package 120 000 bottles per hour. During the brewery tour I saw the plant in action and it was phenomenal to watch. The tour also presented an unique exposition on the beer's ingredients (which is made up of 92% water, barley and malt - all uniquely sourced from the Pilsen area), it's signature processes (which involves heating the beer up to 600 degrees three times) and a visit to both the historic and modern brewhouse. Overall it was extremely informative- especially for a previous non beer-drinker such as myself! - and I thoroughly enjoyed it.
Below are some photos from Plzen. A brief description of some of the most popular Czech beers follows, including ones that I have come to personally know and enjoy.
The iconic Jubilee Gate (which can be found
on the emblem of Pilsner) and entrance to the
Pilsner Urquell Brewery.
The modern copper tanks where Pilsner is brewed
and heated up to 600 degrees.
St Bartholomew Church in the historical
centre with the country's highest church
tower.
The Big Synagogue - the third largest in
the world.
Pilsner Urquell
The world's first bottom-fermented and amber coloured beer - lager - since 1842. Probably the most popular Czech beer abroad, it is responsible for influencing (either directly or non directly) around 70% of all beer today. After many breweries tried to create their own 'Pilsners', the world Urquell (meaning "from the original source") was added to the brand's name. Compared to other lagers, Pilsner Urquell has a distinctly darker shade as well as slightly sweet and malty taste.
Gambrinus
Gambrinus is the most widely available beer in the Czech Republic, therefore making it probably the most popular beer locally. It is brewed by the same people behind Pilsner Urquell, although it is often referred to as the 'cheaper version' of it's more prestigious brother. However, I am rather fond of the 12-degree variety (pictured in the front of the photo) and may even go as far as saying it is my favourite beer thanks to it's smooth and pleasantly bitter taste.
Budweiser Budvar
Subject to a number of trademark disputes with the popular American beer 'Budweiser', Budweiser Budvar is originally a Czech brand-name beer. First produced in the Bohemian town of Ceske Budejovice in 1795, it was later exported to America where the name Budweiser was registered. Budweiser Budvar is a light beer with a slighty sweet and malty taste.
Staropramen
Brewed in Prague since 1869, Staropraman (meaning 'old spring) is another popular beer locally - especially in the city of Prague itself where it is naturally very cheap! Although it is not my first choice of beer due to it's slightly bitter aftertaste, if it is the only one on tap then I will happily drink a glass or two.
Velkopovicky Kozel
First brewed in the small Czech town of Velke Popovice during the mid 16th Century, in 1999 Velkopovicky Kozel merged with Pilsner Urquell. Kozel produces a light and dark beer variety, the latter being one I particularly enjoy thanks to it's smooth, sweet taste.
Svijany
Produced in the Czech town of Svijany since the mid 16th Century, this beer may not be as popular as the aforementioned ones but I have included it as Svijany is one of my personal favourites. With a pleasant light taste, it is extremely easy to drink.
So there you have it, some information on the all-important topic of 'pivo' (beer). I hope that, like me, you are now able to appreciate the truly influential role that this relatively small country has played throughout the beer world.
As they say in Czech, "na zdravi!" (Cheers!)
Australian in Prague
*1 Source: http://www.kirinholdings.co.jp/english/ir/news_release051215_4.html
*2 Source: www.budweiser1795.com
*3 Source: http://archiv.radio.cz/beer/beer2.html
