Thursday, May 27, 2010

"These violent delights have violent ends." William Shakespeare

It is the greatest love story of all time, a tale of passion, conflict and tragedy. I'm talking, of course, about Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet. Written some 400 years ago for little more than a small repertory theatre, Romeo and Juliet is undoubtably the world's most revered play - studied, performed and enjoyed by students, literaries, actors and lovers of theatre alike. The work of a true genius, Shakespeare's words have transcended history and continue to influence our notions of love and use of the English language. A teacher, perpetual seeker of new knowledge and general lover of communication myself, naturally I am drawn to his work.


There have, of course, been countless adaptations of Romeo and Juliet around the world. Earlier this week I was fortunate to witness one in the outdoor Vysehrad Theatre in Prague. Set amongst the ruins of the historical Vysehrad Citadel, the experience was nothing short of magical. Once a church and fortified trading post, Prague's 'second castle' was built in the 10th Century by Bohemian Prince Vratislav II. Located on a cliff overlooking the Vlatva River, the newly created area spawned much development and served as the Premyslid Princes' main residence through to the 12th Century.


Presented in English as part of The 'Prague Shakespeare Festival', the play was performed on a simplistically-decorated wooden stage. An intimately-sized audience sat tiered above the stage on wooden seating. It was a beautiful location, set within the confines of weathered fortress walls. From where I sat, leafy green trees and the tops of buildings from 'The City of 100 Spires' pierced the skyline. In the distance, sirens and church chimes periodically went off and nearby trains rumbled by, adding to the overall rustic feel.


Without a doubt though the most effective element was the lighting, which mirrored the dramatics of the play. When the production began, the stage was bathed in a clear Spring sunlight. But as the drama intensified so too did the nightfall, gradually turning from a pale orange to pink, pale purple to dark. During the pivotal final scenes of the play I found myself almost holding my breath as I watched on - the actors and actresses softly lit by the lights which were strategically placed below them.


And a rather impressive cast they were, ranging in age and experience. Although staying largely true to the script, the production occasionally incorporated it's own modern, slightly 'gangster' lingo. For me it was the Nurse (Juliet's mentor and friend), played by David Fisher, who really stole the show with his hilarious 'voluptuous female' get-up and over-the-top but endearing antics.


The play also made excellent use of its surroundings, with cast members often running amongst the audience and entering from both above and below. The citadel walls were also used effectively, particularly for the famous 'balcony scene' and for when Juliet and later Romeo stood atop them, representing their passing from life to death.


Overall I found the production to be entertaining, fresh and modern and really enjoyed re-experiencing all the passion, conflict and tragedy that is Romeo and Juliet.


Below I have included some photos from the production, as well as some information and photos of the Vysehrad citadel and surrounding area.


Australian in Prague


 Vysehrad Outdoor Theatre



 Juliet and the show-stealing Nurse



Final dramatic scenes



19th Century Church of SS Peter & Paul, whose two dominant spires can be seen from all around Prague.



Neighbouring cemetery, home to Czech notables such as Painter Alfons Mucha, writers Jan Neruda and Karel Capek and composers Antonin Dvorak and Bedrich Smetana.



Vysehrad garden statues depicting figures of Czech Mythology.



Rotunda of St Martin, dating from the 11th Century.



Vysehrad Citadel ruins with the Church of SS Peter & Paul in the background.



Located above the Vltava River, Vysehrad offers great views of Prague.

Monday, May 24, 2010

"Hockey players have fire in their hearts and ice in their veins." Author Unknown

The Australians have AFL, the Americans NFL and the English have football.  For the Czechs it is ice hockey that is their national sporting passion. And rightfully so, as the Czech Republic boast one of the most successful ice hockey teams in the world. In 1998 they won gold at the Nagono Winter Olympics, a bronze in 2006 at the Torino Winter Olympics (becoming one of only 3 teams to medal twice at the Olympic Games along with Russia and Finland) as well as a slew of World Championships including the 1996, 1999, 2000, 2001 and 2005 titles. During this year's Winter Olympics in Vancouver the nation had high hopes for the team, however they finished in a disappointing 7th position. Despite this result, ice hockey has remained the Czech's national sporting passion.


2010 World Ice Hockey Championships


Over the weekend I was fortunate to experience this passion on not one but two separate occasions. Since May 7 the world's best hockey teams had competed at the German-hosted 2010 IIHF World Championship. With the Czech team having reached the semi-finals and the sun back out over the weekend, I decided to head down to my favourite (I may be biased but it is such a beautiful place!), local beer garden, Reigrovy Sady, on Saturday afternoon to watch them play their match against the Swedes.


Semi Final


And what a thrilling match it was! I had never really watched much ice hockey before, but I soon discovered the game to be extremely exciting, fast-paced and even dangerous. Both teams played well, however it was the Swedes that lead most of the way. It looked as though they were going to be victorious over the Czechs and I had almost resigned myself to this fact when in the final seconds of the match the Czechs scored to equalise the game. The garden erupted with celebrations and I instantly felt a buzz of excitement. This excitement only continued to build during the extra time (10 minutes) and with neither team scoring a golden goal the match went to a penalty shootout. Both teams scored their first penalty shot, then when the Swedes missed their second shot the excitement reached fever pitch. Then boom... the Czechs scored their third and the garden erupted once more with even louder celebrations - the Czechs were through to the grand final!


Final


I was told by some friends that Old Town Square on Sunday night was the place to be for the final, as during significant events such as this big screens were set up for the public to view. Making my way there I could feel the tremendous sense of excitement among the Prazaks. The event had brought out the patriot in everyone it seemed, everywhere I looked there were people dressed in Czech team colours, faces painted and bodies adorned with flags. I arrived to the Square to find a formidable buzz in the air - literally thousands had turned out to support their team.


The final was played against the Russians, an equally if not stronger and more successful team. There was some musical entertainment to warm up the crowd, but when the first images of the Czech team were broadcast onscreen the crowd really got going. For the next two hours a collective chorus of chanting would reign, set off by the many highs of the game.


The first high being just 20 seconds in, when the Czechs scored the first goal. Horns were blown, banners were waved and a sea of supporters jumped to their feet and chanted. The Russians had several attempts at shot but Czech goalie Tomas Vokoun, fearlessly fought off their attacks, to which the crowd responded to enthusiastically. At the end of the second third the Czechs scored once again to bring the score to 2-0.


In the final third the Russian's play turned nasty, which was evident in the numerous penalties they received. A direct hit was even taken on Czech national superstar Jaromir Jagr, resulting in loud boos of dismay. Despite being down in players, the Russians managed to score in the final moments, but it was little consolation to the might of the Czech team who moments later jubilantly celebrated their new World Championship crown.


Once again the crowd erupted in celebration. Fire crackers were set off, fans hugged one another and surrounding speakers blared the ever-universal "We Are The Champions" by Queen. As the crowd dispersed so too did the celebrations, with chanting fans spilling onto the nearby streets and public transport. Taking the metro back home was quite the experience. Passionate but well-behaved Czechs crammed into carriages, reveling in the glory of their win.


As I got off and walked back home I felt a certain sense of pride. The enthusiasm had been contagious and, as tired as I was from standing several hours in the masses, I felt really lucky to have experienced such a momentous occasion.


So as the locals would say - Česky! Česky! Česky! 


Australian in Prague



Reigrovy Sady Beer Garden - crowd celebrating the Semi Final win



Old Town Square - two patriotic locals



Crowd erupting with excitement after the Czechs score in the Grand Final


Old Town Square - crowd celebrates the Czech World Champions

Thursday, May 20, 2010

"The principles of true art is not to portray, but to evoke." Jerzy Kosinski

I spoke in my last post of the beautiful Spring weather, well unfortunately Prague has been uncharacteristically experiencing much rain over the last few days. With the rain well and truly set-in over the weekend, I decided to embark on my first art gallery experience - the Narodni Galerie v Praze (National Prague Gallery). Located in the Veletrzni Palac (Trade Palace) near Holesovice, the functionalist building was constructed in 1925-1929 and originally used for trade purposes. It was destroyed by fire in 1974 and since its reconstruction in 1995 it has housed the National Gallery's Collection of Modern and Contemporary Art.


My initial impression of the Veletrzni Palac was that it was nothing special, a large rectangular-shaped grey building that was far from spectacular. But as soon as I walked into the building such thoughts were immediately forgotten. The layout of the building was extremely impressive. Picture a fresh and modern interior, with multiple levels of floors displaying brightly lit art work. On the ground floor you were met with an evoking display of contemporary art, before being directed to a glass lift (yes even the bottom - I tried not to look down!) where you began your viewing experience from the top level.


Entrance to Narodni Galerie


Interior of Narodni Galerie

The gallery displayed a vast array of world-class international artists, including the likes of Rousseau, Picasso, Van Gogh, Braque and Monet. However it was the calibre of the Czech artists that pleasantly surprised me the most. Below are just some whose works I found to be most evoking.


Alphonse (Alfons) Mucha (1860-1939)


Perhaps the most well-known Czech artist, Mucha is famous for pioneering the Art Nouveau movement. His most recognisable works feature attractive, young women in flowing robes and often surrounded by blossoming flowers. Born in Ivancice, Moravia, he moved to Paris fairly early on in his career, where he produced many paintings, posters, advertisements and book illustrations, as well as designs for jewellery, carpets, wallpaper, and theatre sets in what was originally called the Mucha Style.


František Kupka (1871-1957)


Born in Opočno, Bohemia, Kupka was a pioneer and co-founder of the early phases of abstract art movement and orphic cubism (orphism). His works were initially inspired by realism, but later evolved into pure abstract art. Kupka lived and worked in Paris as an illustrator of books and posters, and developed his own color wheels, which are thought to have influenced other artists like Robert Delaunay.

Babylon

Jan Zrzavý (1890-1977)

Born in Okrouhlice, Bohemia, Zrzavý was a leading 20th century painter, graphic artist, and illustrator. Largely involved in the modernist movement, his works were inspired by European medieval art and landscapes. After studying in Prague, he frequently visited Paris and Brittany, however always maintained a strong connection to his homeland.

Cleopatra 

Václav Špála (1885-1946)

A painter, graphic designer and illustrator, Špála's early work was influenced by Fauvism and later by Cubism. From 1923 he painted mainly landscapes and still-lives, and is considered one of the greatest Czech modern artists.

Way

Josef Čapek (1887-1945)

A multi-skilled artist, Čapek paintings were initially influenced by Cubism but later developed into his own playful, primitive style. Čapek collaborated with his brother Karel on a number of plays and short stories. He died in the Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in 1945, where he wrote Poems from a Concentration Camp.


Harmonist

I hope you enjoyed viewing the works of these talented Czech artists and are perhaps inspired to see more!

Australian in Prague

Sunday, May 16, 2010

"[Spring is] when life's alive in everything." Christina Rossetti

"Spring is in the air". Growing up in Australia I never could fully appreciate this saying. Particularly in my home state of 'sunny' Queensland, where the winters are mild (single digit numbers would result in many reaching for an extra blanket or the heater switch!) and the seasons gradually merge from one to another. But having arrived in the Czech Republic at the end of one of the coldest and longest winters on record, I feel I can now really appreciate it.


Prague in winter is truly magnificent. Picture the historical Charles Bridge against a backdrop of the grand Prague Castle, boulevards and buildings all blanketed in a layer of snow. But it was when the last traces of winter melted away that I really felt the city come alive. Squares, parks and gardens turn from white to green, walkways which were once dangerous to walk become walkable, trees and flowers in every colour imaginable blossom and quite literally every man and his dog venture outside. People (myself included!) are much more relaxed. In fact I have found myself looking up and taking in the surroundings more, rather than keeping my head down in an attempt to dodge the cold.


After experiencing the bitterness and chill of winter, you feel as though the coming of Spring is almost like a celebration - and celebrate it the Czechs do! One thing I have loved since coming here is experiencing the various traditional Czech celebrations - and Spring was my first opportunity to do so.


Easter


Easter represents the end of winter and the beginning of Spring. In Prague, markets in various locations are set up in the weeks leading up to and after Easter. Stalls sell hand-crafted gifts such a wooden toys, Czech crystal and glass, candles, jewellery, embroidered cloth, puppets and the most common of all - hand-painted easter eggs. A plethora of food and drink is on offer such as barbecued sausages, pigs roasted on spits, crepes and my personal favourite - Langose, which is a deep-fried dough topped with your choice of either Nutella, garlic or cheese.


As for the Easter weekend itself there are many traditions, although they are more prominent in Czech villages. Girls prepare easter eggs (kraslice), which are decorated intricately with watercolours, stickers, bees wax, feathers and straw. The boys prepare Easter whips (pomlazka) by braiding together osier twigs. These whips are then used on a 'whipping trip', which entails boys stopping at the homes of family and friends and whipping the legs of each girl in the house. Though in the afternoon, the girls may get their revenge by dousing the boys in cold water. The whipping and dousing is performed to rid illness and bad spirits.


Witch Burning Night


Originally a Pagan tradition, 'Witch Burning Night' is an event which takes place on April 30. Witch effigies and broomsticks were burnt to ward off witches, who were said to be responsible for the length of winter. The tradition continues today with Czechs gathering around bonfires with friends, food and drink. As the witches and broomsticks disappear, so too do the last traces of winter.


May Day


Celebrated on May 1, 'May Day' is officially a Labour Day holiday. During Communism it was an occasion for showing your distaste of capitalism, however today it is primarily seen as another opportunity to celebrate Spring. One of the oldest customs is the erection of maypoles, usually made from conifers. Again this is a tradition more prominent in Czech villages, who compete with one another to see whose is the biggest.


For romantics, it is popular for couples to visit the statue of the Czech Poet Macha on Petrin Hill in Prague. I was also told by many of another romantic tradition, which involves boys kissing girls under a cherry blossom tree. The ensuing result is said to be the 'blossoming' of the girl and romance.


Happy Spring!


Australian in Prague




Old Town Square Easter Markets, Prague




My favourite tree - Walnut



Another favourite - Cherry Blossom

Friday, May 14, 2010

"Better to write for yourself and have no public, than to write for the public and have no self." Cyril Connolly

Hello and welcome to my blog, 'Living in the Czech Republic - An Australian's guide to Prague and surrounding areas'. As the title suggests, I am an Australian currently living and working in the Czech Republic, Prague. Refer to it if you will, as being on the philosophical 'journey' that is life. Armed with an open mind, enthusiasm for life and an insatiable hunger for knowledge and new experiences, let's see where the journey takes me! 


As humans we are intrinsically wired to experience and communicate. Having moved to Prague and an avid communicator myself, I felt it necessary to begin this project. I am inspired by this city on a daily basis - its beauty, history, grandeur, architecture and culture. And there is of course much more to the Czech Republic then its capital, which I intend to discover and illustrate over the course of this project.

Firstly though a little about me. I am an Australian in my twenties. Why did I move to the Czech Republic though I hear you ask? I first visited Prague in 2005 during my 'Gap Year' (a popular concept in Australian- essentially a break between High School and University) European travels and immediately fell in love with the place. With the travel bug well and truly ingrained in me and the world in the grips of an economic crisis, I guess it came as no surprise that once completing my Communication Degree I would travel abroad once again. With an affinity for language, I decided to join the 'Teaching English as a Foreign Language' bandwagon and have not looked back since.

As the title of this post suggests, the purpose of this blog is perhaps primarily selfish. It is a forum for me to express my experiences and discoveries in a way which I enjoy most - writing. Since my arrival in Prague many have imparted their knowledge to me, to which I am most grateful. I too hope to do the same with you.

So happy reading!


Australian in Prague