"If a nation's culture survives, then so too does the nation." Jan Mladek

Laid-back, friendly, hard-working, competitive, patriotic. These are just some of the words that are commonly associated with Australians. The last is one I especially agree with. Australian patriotism is as much ingrained in our make-up as the sun and surf, and subsequently is evident in all areas of life. You only have to look at any international sporting event us 'Aussies' partake in, you'll always find a sea of green and gold fans fervently chanting "Aussie! Aussie! Aussie! Oi! Oi! Oi!" Or perhaps on ANZAC Day (a national day of remembrance on April 25 - initially for WWI Australian and New Zealand Army Corps but now commemorating all those who have died in military operations) where parades around the country are attended, BBQs lit and flags proudly displayed by both young and old in celebration of our country's independence.

There is no denying it, Australia is a great country to live in. But it is also a fairly young country and as such has a young history. Certainly one of the reasons I am living on this side of the world is because I am drawn to its history. Europe is very much a land of contrasts - contrasting landscapes, cities and people. It is history though that ultimately shapes people, and what a long and eventful one Europe boasts. Throughout the ages there have been many great discoveries and transformations in the arts, science, technology, infrastructure and so on. But with the good also comes the bad. Countless wars have been waged motivated by religion, land, ethnicity and ideology. In the 20th Century alone the names of Hitler, Stalin, Mussolini and Milosevic spring to mind, whose dictatorships resulted in much devastation and loss of human life. 


Czech History

With its central location in Europe, the Czech Republic has naturally been directly affected by many of these conflicts. In modern history, both the Nazi and Soviet Regimes have wielded their devastating power over the Czech people. From 1939 to 1945 the Nazis occupied Bohemia and Moravia (Czech parts of the then Czechoslovakia state). While Prague and indeed most of the Czech Republic were largely physically unscathed, the same can not be said for the Czech Jewish Community. Suffering much the same fate as Jews around Europe, some 80 000 Czech Jews lost their lives during WWII in holding and concentration camps.* As WWII drew to a close Czechoslovakia proclaimed independence in 1945, but it was to be short-lived. After the 1946 elections the Czech Communist Party formed a Coalition Government. Two years later they staged a coup d'etat, which essentially began the nation's long decline into decades of Communism. It was an era where restrictions were imposed in almost all areas of Czechs' lives, severely limiting their choice in travel, occupation, food, fashion, culture and political thought. It would not be until the end of 1989 when the Czechs would escape the suffocating mechanics of Communism, after the famous week-long demonstrations known as the Velvet Revolution. Initially an underground movement sparked by growing dissent towards the Communist regime, the Velvet Revolution or Gentle Revolution was a mostly peaceful movement, with the exception of November 17, 1989. Riot-police suppressed a non-violent student demonstration in Prague's Wenceslas square, which (much to the Communist's dismay) resulted in a swelling of support to the anti-Communist cause. The Revolution was largely led by writer and playwright Vaclav Havel. Havel garnered the support of important figures as well as university students, who further spread the message of political dissatisfaction amongst those in the working community and surrounding villages and towns. The result was a series of protests in Prague and other Czechoslovakian cities such as Brno, Ostrava and Bratislava, which culminated in the standing down of the Communist Party and the election of Havel as the first President of Czechoslovakia (and later The Czech Republic) post-Communism.*


Prague's Historical Reminders

In Prague there are constant reminders of these dark times. At the foot of Petrin Hill is the Memorial to the Victims of Communism, a provoking sculpture by Olbram Zoubek depicting 'broken' men in various stages and descending a set of stairs. Atop Letna Park and figuratively so the entire city, is artist Vratislav Karel Novak's giant red metronome. It replaced the world's largest statue of Joseph Stalin and symbolises the passage of time. Outside the National Museum a wooden cross is embedded in the walkway, marking the exact spot where university student Jan Palach set himself on fire and died in protest against the Soviet invasion in 1969.* But perhaps the most powerful reminder of all can be found in the silent form of art.

Museum Kampa

Over the weekend I visited yet another art gallery, Museum Kampa, and again I was blown away by the quality of art. Since living here, I have found the Czech Republic to be somewhat of a 'hidden European jewelbox', and have consequently enjoyed discovering its many gems. Originally the complex of the historical Sova's Mills, this gem has since been transformed into a Museum for Central European Modern Art. A striking, white, modern building with a clever and original layout, Museum Kampa houses a unique collection of art accumulated over the lifetime of Meda and her late-husband Jan Mladek (who is responsible for the title of this post). As Jan's quote so clearly articulates, the Mladek's believed that culture is the basis for a nation's survival. The collection hence reflects this belief, showcasing the works of artists who were persecuted, exiled or driven underground during Communism.

The collection included an impressive range of central European (mostly Czech) artists. The quality and presentation of the art was amazing, which had obviously been meticulously selected and grouped together. However it was the emotionally-evocative nature of the works which I found to be the most powerful. Discontentment, frustration, despair, numbness - these are just some of the raw emotions I felt and I believe the works intended to portray. The two biggest contributors of work though were Czechs Frantisek Kupka and Otto Gutfreund. I mentioned Kupka in one of my previous posts after first viewing his work at Narodni Galerie. Well I was further impressed by this artist's talent. A pioneer of abstract art, Kupka used a variety of materials and styles and as such has a wide and impressive repertoire of work. The second largely featured artist is Otto Gutfreund, who was a prominent Czech sculptor. Despite his short-lived life (he drowned from exhaustion while swimming in the Vltava River at the age of 38!),  he produced a great number of drawings and sculptures. I was especially drawn to his sculptures, which depicted extremely expressive faces and bodies. 

I have to also mention the location of Museum Kampa, as it made my experience all the more memorable. Situated on the bank of the Vltava River on Kampa Island (a green park area separated from Mala Strana by a small canal known as 'The Devil's Stream' or 'Prague's Little Venice'), the location was supremely prime. Making my way through the museum I'd often look out the window and find myself laying eyes on many of Prague's major sights - Prague Castle in all its grandeur, Charles Bridge with its blackened stone statues, Petrin Tower- the 'mini Eiffel Tower of Prague', The National Theatre with its intricate, gold roof and in the distance Old Town Square. You may think I'm locally biased, but there is really no better city backdrop in the world. Sometimes in all the hustle and bustle of life I forget just how spectacular and picturesque Prague is, but it is moments like these that make me love it all the more.

Below are some photos of the Museum itself, it's unforgettable views and a few of the works I found to be the most emotionally-evocative. A timeline of important 20th Century events in Czech history follows, with photos of the constant historical reminders around Prague.


Australian in Prague

The modern architecture of Kampa Museum

The eccentric row of yellow penguins on the Vltava River, which 

are lit up at night and lead the eye towards the famous Charles Bridge.

"Although they keep silent, the cry aloud; their silence is more 

expressive than words" - Jozef Lukomski

"Family Portrait" - Theodor Pistik

"We demand bread" - a widely-used slogan 

in anti-Communist demonstrations.

Simple and effective layout of Museum Kampa

Timeline of Important 20th Century Czech Events

- Beginning of the 20th Century: Czechs are part of the Hasburg Austro-Hungarian Empire.

- 1918: After the defeat of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in WWI Czechoslovakia is given it's independence on 28 October. Comprised of Bohemia, Moravia and Slovakia, Tomas Masaryk is the first President.

- 1938: In October the first Nazis arrive, occupying the German-speaking area of Sudetenland.

- 1939: The Nazis occupy Bohemia and Moravia in March, with Slovakia proclaiming independence as a Nazi 'puppet state'.

- 1939-1945: Some 80 000 Czech Jews die in Nazi holding and concentration camps.

- 1945: After WWII Czechoslovakia is reestablished as an independent state.

- 1946: During elections the Czech Communist Party receive the highest percentage of votes and form a coalition government. 

-1948: With the support of the Soviet Union, the Czech Communist Party stage a coup d'etat making Czechoslovakia a Communist country.

- 1960s: Czechoslovakia enjoys a slightly more 'liberal' Communist period led by Party leader Alexander Dubcek. During this time of 'socialism with a human face' there is resurgence in culture and relaxing of media restrictions. 

-1968: In what is referred to as the 'Prague Spring', Dubcek's period of liberal reforms ends when Soviet tanks invade Czechoslovakia in August. Dubcek is replaced by the orthodox Gustav Husak, beginning 20 years of Soviet influence.

-1969: In protest of the Soviet invasion, Czech student Jan Palack makes a sacrificial suicide pact with other students. He sets himself on fire in Wenceslas Square on 16 January and dies. Another two students - Jan Zavij also in Wenceslas Square and Evzen Plocek in Jihlava - die too by setting themselves on fire in the same year.

- 1977: Playwright Vaclav Havel, along with  242 other leading intellectuals and artists, sign a document called Charta 77 and begin campaigning for basic human rights.

- 1989: On 17 November violent police attack a peaceful protest rally in Wenceslas Square led by Vaclav Havel. It results in a swelling of public support and the staging of more demonstrations in Prague and other major Czechoslovakia cities. This week-long movement is known as the Velvet Revolution and results in the resigning of the Communist Government and the election of Havel as the first president of post-Communist Czechoslovakia.

- 1993: The Slovaks and Czechs peacefully split on 1 January, with Havel elected as the first President of the Czech Republic. He remains President until 2003 when he stands down and current President Vaclav Klaus takes his seat. 

Prague's Historical Reminders

Memorial to the Victims of Communism

Memorial to student Jan Palack - who burnt himself to death 

at this exact location (Wenceslas Square, 1969) in protest 

of the 1968 Soviet invasion.

The giant red metronome atop Letna Park, symbolising 

'the passage of time.'

Sources: http://www.czechsite.com/history.html, http://www.everyculture.com/Cr-Ga/Czech-Republic.html, Prague Encounter - Lonely Planet 2007, Museum Kampa